Chameleon World

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2009-04-28T18:28:00.000-07:00

"Excerpts from Experts Section" (click on July folder)

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Interview With Frances Baines. Part IV

2008-07-31T02:39:00.000-07:00

For previous session (part III) click here.

10. I am not familiar at all with Metal Halides. Can you elaborate more about this type of lamp. Do you perhaps have a Metal Halide Spectograph that you can share with us? -Q contributed by Kevin Zamp-

Metal halide lamps are basically mercury vapor lamps with added compounds of various metals and halogens inside the arc tube. There's a great description of these here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metal_halide_lamp
The exact combination determines the color of the light produced, and it is much brighter than an ordinary mercury vapor lamp. A good quality 70W flood will produce maybe 75,000 lux at 12 inches... that's illuminance at full sunlight levels. Obviously you don't need to have the lamp so close... placed at a greater distance, the light will cover a much wider area but still provide intensely bright illumination.
The other impressive thing about metal halides is that ones with "daylight" color balance (around 5,000 - 6500K) have so many "spikes" of light at different wavelengths, produced by all the different chemicals, that the spectrum is almost continuous. This makes for extremely good color rendering - the spectrum is more like sunlight than any other lamp.
This chart shows the spectra of sunlight, one of the best metal halides, the Iwasaki/Eye Lighting Color Arc PAR36 (sold for human use) and a mercury vapor lamp for comparison.

Metal halides for human use (lighting showrooms, factories, airports and sports stadia, etc) are sold as double or single-ended unshielded bulbs to go inside lumieres, or as self-contained "regular" bulb shapes, eg. PAR38 or PAR30 lamps with Edison screw fittings. The unshielded bulbs can be very dangerous; some emit vast amounts of UVC. Those behind lumiere glass, and those sold as "regular" shaped bulbs are rendered safe for humans because the outer glass blocks UVC and UVB. Those being developed for reptiles, however, use the same glass as used for reptile mercury vapor lamps - which lets through useful UVB, but blocks harmful UVC.

There are two companies producing "reptile" halides at present; the Reptile UV MegaRay Halide 70W lamps (made in Canada) and the Lucky Reptile 50W, 70W and 150W Bright Sun series (made in China). The spectra from these are all fairly similar, they produce a very good white light and variable amounts of UVB. This chart shows the spectra of the ReptileUV lamp and the 70W Lucky Reptile Bright Sun Desert lamp.

However, if you look carefully at the spectrum of the Iwasaki/Eye Lighting Color Arc lamp in the previous chart, you might be able to see that this lamp, when new, also delivers very nice UVB and UVA, but this fades rapidly. In fact Andy and Janette use these for "artificial sunlight" over most of their cages, monitoring their UVB output and keeping the lamp, but adding a UVB tube, when the UV output has decayed too much.

But before we all rush out to buy a metal halide, there are a few drawbacks to these brilliant lamps.

Firstly, a very good electrical system is needed to operate them.
They are all externally ballasted, because they need really precise control of their operation. And just any old ballast won't do. The quality and color of the light is extremely sensitive to the current flowing through the arc tube. High quality ballasts are needed to avoid flicker, frequent cutting-out and re-starting, and loss of the full color spectrum.
They are ignited by a 4KV initial pulse from this ballast. This requires excellent electrical connections and fixtures designed to handle that sort of voltage, as well as the heat. Anything less - moisture or dirt in the terminals, for example, or too long a cable between ballast and lamp - and the lamp may fizz and sputter, but it won't ignite properly. (They take a few minutes to ignite and reach full brightness anyway, often with assorted flashes and flickering).

Secondly, my initial tests seem to suggest that they decay rather faster than mercury vapor lamps. This may be in part due to the quality of the ballasts used. However, as far as I know, the arc tubes in use in these lamps are quartz glass, not ceramic and, as the Wikipedia article explains, these do have a limited lifespan owing to a problem known as "ion creep" which also causes color changes during the life of the lamp. Presumably this also affects the UV output. The lamps I have tested have varied widely in their decay rates, but long-term testing of several of the ReptileUV and Lucky Reptile lamps has shown decay of between 34% and 65% in the first 1,000 hours (3 months at 10 - 12hrs a day). If these rates are typical, few lamps will have a useful UVB lifespan of more than 6 months.

Because of the variability with these lamps, I think regular monitoring with a UVB meter is essential.

11. What equipment you recommend for us to have to better measure the amount of light necessary for our reptiles? (Is owning a uvb meter 6.2 enough? Or would you recommend us to have a UV Index meter as well?)

The Solarmeter 6.2 is the most versatile and useful broadband meter available; I wouldn't be without one. But like all broadband meters, it can only measure what it "sees"; and it sees the whole spectrum from UVC to a short distance into the UVA. This means it can't distinguish between a lamp that produces a lot of dangerous very short wavelength UVB from one which produces a lot of harmless long wavelength UVB. In other words, you can use it to monitor a lamp's decay, but you can't use it to decide how similar a lamp's output is to sunlight, or to compare one brand of lamp with another.

A year ago, I would have suggested that anyone who could afford to spend a little more on their reptile equipment would find a Solarmeter 6.5 UV Index Meter a worthwhile investment. These "see" only a much narrower band of wavelengths; the Silicon Carbide sensor in combination with a special interference filter is calibrated to give a good estimate of the amount of UV below about 300nm (UVB and UVC). Dr Gary Ferguson and his team have demonstrated that this meter (and its "sister" meter, the Solarmeter 6.4) can predict quite accurately the vitamin-D3-synthesizing potential of any lamp, and the sun.
The 6.5 meter gives the readout in terms of the easily understood UV Index. If we know the basking habits of our reptiles, we can estimate the UV Index they would choose to expose themselves to, in the wild, and then decide how much UVB to offer. It's a very handy safety feature, too. The highest UV Index ever seen, at mid-day on the equator at sea level, is around 16 - 17. Reptiles would rarely venture out into that. So what would you do if you discovered your new lamp would expose your reptile to UV Index 100 or more? Sadly, this is no joke...I know some "spot" mercury vapor lamps still on sale today which emit extremely dangerous levels like that, at the manufacturer's recommended basking distances..
The only drawback with the 6.5 meter is that it's measuring such tiny amounts of light that the UVB from a fairly low-UVB fluorescent tube, at basking distances, will hardly register a flickering 0.1 or 0.2 on the meter. At the very limits of its resolution, the meter is not very accurate at such low levels.

But unfortunately, the 6.5 meter not be on every herper's shopping list, today.
It relies upon a SiC sensor. These are now considered outdated, and are being replaced by AlGaN sensors in most applications. The supply is now very limited; they are no longer being manufactured, and only one supplier, with dwindling stocks, now exists. The Solarmeter 6.5 with a SiC sensor has just unavoidably suffered a massive price increase as a result, although Steve Mackin believes he will be able to supply these very special meters for some time to come.

The AlGaN sensor is suitable for monitoring sunlight and lamps with spectra very much like sunlight. However, it does not respond well to short wavelength UVB and UVC, and as a result broadband meters fitted with AlGaN sensors do not give comparable results with many types of reptile lamp, and in fact the ones I trialled were unable to detect hazardous output from several lamps giving extremely high UV Index readings with the original Solarmeter 6.5 with the SiC sensor.

People who already own both a 6.2 and a 6.5 meter can make "conversion charts" by taking paired readings from the same lamp at different distances, which can be used to plot a linear regression and obtain a formula for calculating the UV Index equivalent to any Solarmeter 6.2 reading from that lamp. The formula will work, in theory, for any other lamp of that specific brand; but each brand will have its own unique formula, because they all have different spectral power distributions. I hope to publish a full set of conversion formula for all the most popular lamps, on UV Guide, eventually.

12. Let's say that we allowed sunlight into our reptile room. Even though it passes glass, does it still keep a lot of the spectrum below the UVB level? -Q contributed by Kevin Zamp-

No. Ordinary glass (as opposed to quartz glass) acts like a UV filter, progressively blocking shorter wavelengths of UV. Window glass blocks 99 - 100% of the UVB. It allows some UVA through (about 65% at 350nm) and almost all visible light (over 90%).
If you want to glaze a window to let in some UVB, though, special high-transmission glass (which is very low in iron) is available which will let some UVB through. In the USA, one such glass is PPG Industries "Starphire" Uncoated Ultra-Clear Float Glass. Two brands which can be purchased in the UK are Asahi Glass Company's Planibel Clearvision (28% transmission of UVB at 305nm) and Pilkingtons' OptiWhite (25% transmission at 305nm).

13. What do you think of external vs. internal ballasted lamps for MV and MH (if it comes that way) -Q contributed by Kevin Zamp-?

I don't think self-ballasted metal halides (using a simple intermal tungsten filament) are going to happen; these really need electronic ballasts because of the fine control needed.
From the point of view of light quality, one might think self-ballasted (SB) mercury vapours would be better than externally-ballasted (EB) ones, because of the tungsten filament producing some continuous-spectrum, golden light to offset the very "spikey" spectrum and very poor colour rendering of the light from the mercury arc. They are marginally better; but the arc tube is so bright it overpowers the tungsten filament. In my opinion both SB and EB lamps should be combined with "daylight" full-spectrum lighting, ideally with a continuous spectrum, as I mentioned before.

The main reason for choosing an SB lamp would be to increase the heat at the basking spot. A 160W SB MegaRay produces a very suitable basking spot for my chuckwallas (up to 120F!) which is quite impossible with a 60W EB MegaRay. Conversely, an EB lamp would be much more suitable for use with montane species, requiring high UVB but lower temperatures.

14. So, as regards provision of the best light for reptile keepers, do you have any more tips that you can share?

I think I have probably said too much already!
If anyone asked me to summarize everything in just a few sentences, I'd probably say:
Research your species! Plan to mimic its natural light environment as far as possible.
"Select and combine" lamps to get the best spectrum you can.
Always, always check your temperatures.
Never buy anything just because it's really cheap. UVB lamps are health products, like drugs, not fashion accessories like plastic plants or food bowls. Would you buy a packet of pills if you didn't know what was in them?

15. Last, but not least, what is next for you? Any exciting researches you are going to do? Books to publish?

Right now, I just want time to update the UV Guide UK website!..... but one day, yes, I do hope to write a book on the subject. There is a lot going on at the moment, too, that I'm very excited to be involved with. For example, Peter Nunn at Alice Springs Desert Park has completed a marvellous survey of the voluntary UVB exposure of wild long-nosed dragons over a full year; we hope to write up this study with Dr. Gary Ferguson.

Thank you so much for this wonderful opportunity! I wish you many success for your future research.

----- End of the Interview ------

Interview With Frances Baines. Part III

2008-07-31T00:02:00.000-07:00

For previous session (Part II) -click here

7. The key of providing the best lighting for our reptiles I believe relies on our knowledge in how a specific reptile receives sun light in his microhabitat. With that said, having a UV light directly on shine 12 hours a day and the 6" usual distance, is that even close to ideals?

What can we do, as hobbyist, to be able to correctly measure the proper "light" for our reptiles?

There are a few studies being done right now for a tiny handful of species, but the "unknowns" far outweigh the "known".

Common sense, though, is a powerful ally; as is the knowledge that the reptile himself is extremely aware of his needs and has evolved to seek out the optimal environment from what's made available to him. If he's got the space to move around and plenty of choice between areas of full light, dappled light, and shade, at different times he will choose different parts of the enclosure, as he would select different parts of his territory in the wild.

Here are my suggestions:

1. Research your reptile! Don't even buy a "beginners" reptile like a leopard gecko until you know where they live in the wild, how they behave in the wild, and whether you can re-create something vaguely resembling that landscape, with its places of shelter (trees, branches and leaves? Rocks and caves? Underground tunnels?) And its combination of light and shade, hot and cold, wet and dry.

2. Buy the best equipment you can possibly afford. The cheapest is hardly ever the best when it comes to heating, lighting and measuring devices. I believe proper digital and/or non-contact thermometers, dimming thermostats for heat lamps and quality UV lamps are essential, not optional extras. A UVB meter is very expensive but saves a lot of anxiety; metabolic bone disorder is one of the most common health problems in captive reptiles, but as far as I know, it's unheard of, in the wild.

3. If you know that your species naturally basks in sunlight, make your vivarium large enough to create a small patch of "sunlight" inside.

Sunlight contains UVB, UVA, good visible light and infra-red (heat). You will need more than one type of lamp to supply all this in one zone. You are trying to create a "sunlight gradient" here, with the UV, visible light and heat diminishing steadily with distance from the source; but the "basking zone" needs to be large enough for the whole body of the reptile to fit inside it. Think carefully about its location and provide nearby shelter. Double-check your temperatures both in the basking zone and at the cool end. Overheating is all too easy when creating "sunlight" indoors, mainly because of limited airflow.

4. Visible light levels are very difficult to guess at, because our eyes accommodate so well. Reptile eyes also accommodate; but the light that reaches the reptile brain directly through the skull is important as well. We can't re-create the full brilliance of natural daylight indoor, let alone sunlight. But if your species basks in sunlight, then the basking zone must surely provide intense full-spectrum, white "daylight" - incandescent lamps or metal halides to provide thousands of lux, not just a few hundred lux from a fluorescent lamp, and certainly not a red "infra-red heat lamp"!

Then, open areas in the rest of the vivarium need to be well lit, too. You don't want a "spotlight on a darkened stage" effect; your reptile needs to be able to see everywhere, not just inside the basking zone. This is where good fluorescent "daylight" tubes can be useful, if you don't want any more heat. For lighting really large habitats or whole rooms, wall or ceiling-mounted metal halides high above the enclosures are unbeatable.

4. The sun is overhead during the day; eyes are designed to cope with this. Avoid angling lamps sideways straight into an animal's line of sight. Do you like driving your car straight into the setting sun?

I'm sure you can think of many other useful and sensible ways of improving a reptile habitat. Examples include altering day length with the seasons, if appropriate; simulating dawn and dusk, by timing the lamps with a lower color temperature (more golden, less UV) to come on earlier, and to switch off later, than the blue-white UVB lamps. If you have a much more sophisticated set-up, you can simulate sunrise and sunset even more accurately with dimmers and so forth.

With that said, we keep reptiles successfully, in my opinion, only because these amazing creatures are remarkably well adapted to survive in adversity.

8. Talking about microhabitat, I know that your research (please correct me if I am wrong) deals with measuring UV rays in reptiles’ microhabitat. Is there a specific research that deals with chameleon in their microhabitat that you know of?

I wish!

There would have been, but it never happened.

Last February, Dr. Gary Ferguson and Bill Love, specifically to record the UVB, visible light and temperature of chameleons in their native habitat, planned a most exciting little research expedition to Madagascar. Unfortunately, not enough participants booked to go on the trip, which was being organized by Bill as one of his "Blue Chameleon Ventures" Madagascan tours. So it didn't go. Perhaps, in the future...

9. So, now that we understand a bit about attributes of light and reptile needs of light, we finally come to our husbandry. So far, do you have any leaning toward certain type of lights? (I know you mentioned about metal halides).

Sunlight is the perfect light source.

I think the seasonal changes in my own reptiles' behaviors are initiated as much by the changes in daylight they see through the windows as by my feeble attempts to change the day length using timers on my lamps. The night drop in temperature also increases in winter, I think this too plays a part, but I lean towards letting them see daylight as much as possible. My friends Andy and Jeanette Beveridge are very experienced with chameleons and put them in outdoor cages (with appropriate shelter) when the weather is right. My bearded dragons enjoy as much outdoor sunlight as they can get.

Indoors, I think Dr. Henry Brames' catchphrase "select and combine" sums up my view very well.

I would always want to combine a bright lamp with a continuous spectrum (such as a tungsten or halogen incandescent lamp - predominantly light from the red and yellow end of the spectrum, with much less blue and UVA) with a UVB lamp designed for reptiles, which provide UVB, some UVA and a discontinuous spectrum which does however have peaks in blue, purple and UVA.

The sort I would choose would depend on the species and on the vivarium size. My leopard geckos, for example, have small 2ft - 3ft vivaria equipped with household 40W incandescent lamps on dimming thermostats and UVB fluorescent tubes with good UVB spectra but relatively low output (such as ZooMed Reptisun 5.0, Arcadia D3 Reptile, Sylvania Reptistar). My bearded dragons have larger vivaria (4ft+) and these utilise 80W PAR38 incandescent flood lamps combined with flood-type mercury vapour lamps with high UVB output (such as ReptileUV MegaRay and T-Rex Active UV Heat Flood)

But recently, I have been testing some of the new metal halides which emit UVB, and yes, I am impressed. At the moment I'm using them in 4ft vivaria with my chuckwallas and my little Ctenosaur palearis, and I think eventually I might use them instead of the mercury vapour lamps, for all the sun-loving species.

To be continued to Part IV--------------

Interview With Frances Baines. Part II

2008-07-30T18:18:00.000-07:00

For previous session (Part I) click here
5. Your comment of “UVB lamps should be positioned over the basking zone” and “D3 synthesis requires warmth” intrigues me. In your opinion, do reptiles have some perception of the presence of uvb and heat as different entities? Or do they assume visible light means warmth and uvb in one. What is the problem, if there is any, from separating uvb to one end and heat bulb to another end?

Dr. Gary Ferguson and his team have done pioneering studies into the reptile "perception" of UVB, working with Panther chameleons. Their carefully designed experiments do suggest that chameleons, at least, can perceive UVB - or at least, perceive locations where there are higher levels of UVB - since, if they are deficient in vitamin D3, they choose to spend longer in these areas.

Chameleons were given the opportunity to choose whether or not to bask under UVB or UVA lamps in an enclosure where both shady and exposed areas were held at a uniform ambient temperature (about 29C). The chameleons were significantly attracted to the light from both lamps, and the vitamin D3-deficient ones were more attracted to the UVB lamps than the UVA lamps.

This does suggest that they are attracted to light even when it is not associated with heat, and that they can perceive UVB as a separate entity from UVA. What exactly do they perceive, though? They can definitely see UVA, but it seems unlikely, given the properties of the reptile eye, that they can actually see UVB. Maybe they can feel it on their skin; maybe the "feel-good factor" humans experience under UVB, possibly linked to endorphin production, is a faded human version of what a reptile experiences?

But can chameleons perceive light and heat as different entities? We can't really deduce that, because this experiment doesn't investigate the chameleon's perception of heat, at all.

I know of very few studies on reptiles where the components of sunlight have been separated out, to see what choices the reptile will make. Since a reptile must maintain its core temperature between very specific limits for life itself, we might hypothesize that if reptiles can distinguish between them, they would select basking spots based upon the temperature there, rather than upon the presence of light or UV light in the area.

One experiment conducted on spiny-tailed iguanas by Dickinson and Fa (1997) showed that these lizards were all significantly more attracted to an incandescent lamp than to a non-light-emitting heat source or a UV tube, which seems to undermine the theory. Unfortunately, the results are not conclusive, because the temperature under the incandescent lamp was hotter than under the non-light heat source, and much hotter than under the UV tube.

More research is needed! However, part of Dickinson and Fa's study clearly showed that when the choice was between the incandescent lamp and the UV tube, the lizards were primarily attracted to the lamp; they spent comparatively little time under the tube.

If we separate our UVB tubes from our heat lamps, then this is an unnatural state of affairs, which requires the reptile to make a choice it would not need to make in the wild. The captive reptile in this situation cannot absorb UVB and bask at the same time. Even if it "knows" it needs UVB, the vital necessity of maintaining a suitable body temperature seems likely to be prioritized over UV absorption, which could well be much reduced as a result. But someone needs to do the experiments, to find out whether this is indeed the case.

6. So many elements need to be considered in simulating light in captivity to be as close as possible to natural light. What about the effect of moon light to reptiles? Is this something that we might, in the future, be interested to simulate as well even for diurnal reptiles such as chameleons?

Here's what seems to be a popular view: "Reptiles can't see red light, and infra-red lamps aren't very bright, so they can be used 24/7 as a heat source. Alternatively, moonlight is blue, so deep blue lamps can be used to simulate moonlight. Moonlight is natural and won't affect the reptiles. The lamps look really nice to me, and enable night-time viewing."

The only part of this which is true is ". The lamps look really nice to me, and enable night-time viewing." I am convinced that using lamps at night is solely for the benefit of the human owner.

Firstly, reptiles can see red light. It is true that some reptiles lack a "red" cone in their retina; but, so do colorblind humans, and red light isn't invisible to them, either. Red looks bright; it's just not a distinctive color to them. Chameleons do have a "red" cone however, and can see every color in the spectrum, from UVA to red.

Secondly, moonlight is NOT blue. It's sunlight reflected off a huge light gray lump of rock - it has all the colors of sunlight - it's a slightly yellowish white. You can see this on spectra; but you can also prove this easily by taking time exposures with a camera. If you use digital, it's vital you switch the "color balance" to "daylight" to stop the camera correcting for a color cast, because you want to know what color cast, if any, there is.

Here is the photo of the moon, almost due South of me.

The light isn't blue. Notice the white moon and the color of the clouds. There is also a hint of a "halo" from ice crystals - note that the trace of a rainbow in the cloud on the left of the moon has normal colors in it.
Here is a flash photo of the view from our garden (to prove it was very dark at 12:43 am) aimed at the moonlit hillside to the north.

Here is the same view, taken one minute earlier, on a tripod with no flash and a 20-second time exposure at f4.

The moonlight is just like sunlight! The house to the right is also partly lit by a street light - it's an orange colour because it's an incandescent lamp. The white spots in the sky are the stars.

Moonlight is very dim (about
0.5 - 1 lux). Here is my lux meter, caught with a flash photo whilst reading 1 lux from the moon.

Human colour vision almost fails at such low light levels; we use retinal cells called rods to see in dim light and we only see in black-and-white with these. Reptiles don't have rods; their vision is always in color and some nocturnal species can distinguish subtle hues of gray brown and blue in moonlight.

Thirdly, artificial "moonlight" and "infra-red" lamps are, compared to moonlight, intensely bright!
Here are some test result taken at 12 inches below the lamp using a lux meter:

Exo Terra Night Glo 50 W (Dark Blue) and Hobby Moonlight 40 W (Dark Blue) = 89 lux
Hobby Moonlight 75 W (Dark Blue) = 239 lux
ZooMed Nightlight 60 W (Red) = 349 lux
ZooMed InfraRed Heat 100 W (Red) = 4,880 Lux

Finally, we have this idea that moonlight does not affect animals. However, various research papers have reported that many nocturnal species behave differently on moonlit nights. Some small geckos increase their activity, whereas the activity of a larger species of gecko, and some rattlesnakes, was found to be much reduced if there was moonlight. And remember, we're talking about a maximum of 1 lux!

Even just opening the door of a darkened reptile room, allowing a chink of light from another room at the other end of the house to be seen, will provide more than 1 lux.

For humans, darkness enables the brain to synthesize melatonin, important in setting daily and seasonal body rhythms. If we are exposed to bright light in the middle of the night, melatonin synthesis stops dead in its tracks, and, ironically, blue wavelengths are by far the most effective for suppressing synthesis.

However, the situation in reptiles is different. The length of day and night and the depth of the night-time temperature drop are both important, and the effects of sudden light exposure are not the same as in mammals.
I'm not sure that a totally natural "day" and "night" are ever possible for a reptile kept in human habitation. But, I do think "night lights" can only make things far worse for the little guy in the cage.

To be continued to Part III---------------

Interview With Frances Baines. Part I

2008-07-30T16:25:00.000-07:00

Frances Baines in Galapagos Island. Photo taken by Janette Beveridge.
Courtesy of Frances Baines.

Mrs. Frances Baines, M.A., Vet.M.B., M.R.C.V.S.
is a veterinarian particularly well known for her astounding dedication in the research field of visible and UV light for reptiles. she works as an advisor to the Reptile and Amphibian Working Group of the British and Irish Association of Zoos and Aquariums. You can visit her website for more detailed information about her works and research at: http://www.uvguide.co.uk/

A bit of my thoughts:
I contacted Mrs. Frances Baines for an interview request in June 2009. To my surprise, I found out that she was well aware of my blog from her acquaintances. A simple interview turned out to be a very informative and enjoyable experience. I thought of editing some of the info to fit this interview in one section. Yet, I changed my mind. I wanted to share as much as information that I got during the interview to all of you. So, this interview will span to 4 sections instead.
I hope you guys will enjoy this.

My questions are in red.
Mrs. Baines' answers are in blue.

Interview Date: July 7, 2009.

1. How did your interest in reptiles begin?
I grew up in Hampshire, England, near one of the last remnants of natural lowland heath, and I was one of those strange young teenagers who spent most of her summers not trying on miniskirts and lipstick, but either knee deep in heather and gorse looking for wildlife, or bringing home lizards, frogs and newts “to populate the garden”, to the horror of my mother, who was terrified of them. Back in the 1960s and early 1970s, no one I knew kept reptiles in captivity. But I loved the little wild ones.

2. Is there any particular reason or history behind your interest in researching about UVB?

Years ago, when our first much-loved bearded dragon, Pog, developed metabolic bone disorder despite the use of a supposedly high-quality UV lamp, I was devastated. I knew little about UV light, and I had relied upon the product advertisements. After researching, I was astonished to discover how little good information on UV lighting was known.

In 2004, I came across a new Internet mailing list being set up by hobbyists in the USA http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/UVB_Meter_Owners.

There, I heard about a hand-held UVB meter available in the USA; and I read about a new mercury vapor lamp called a ReptileUV MegaRay, that Bob MacCargar had invented. I asked him about his lamp. To my amazement, he offered to send me a sample.

On the mailing list were two chameleon owners from the UK - Andy Beveridge and Rob Lane. Rob imported the very first Solarmeter 6.2 UVB meters into the UK. And, we began testing UV lamps, along with fellow herp keeper Rachel Hitch.

We launched the website www.uvguide.co.uk on 26th July 2005. Recent involvement with a number of zoos and research groups worldwide has greatly broadened the scope of the project. Contacts include veterinarians, zoo keepers, herpetologists, conservationists, major reptile lighting manufacturers and distributors, and many enthusiastic keepers and hobbyists who are working with us to improve the lives of reptiles in captivity. Over the years, Rob and Rachel have moved on to other things. Andy is our technical expert, and taught me how to use his two new spectrometers; I've taken over almost all the lamp testing now.

We now have a range of meters as well as the spectrometers, and it's not just UVB I'm measuring, but the whole solar spectrum and its artificial equivalents. Reptiles are quite literally "solar powered", and it is exciting to be learning so much about different aspects of their lives.

3. Herp hobbyists always strive to find a perfect light for our pets. For new reptile keepers, what are the components of Sunlight that needed by solar powered reptiles?

In a word: everything! Reptiles are very sensitive to all aspects of sunlight. Sunlight is a radiant energy, extending from the shortest UVB wavelengths that the atmosphere lets through (around 290 - 295nm) up to UVA and visible light, right up to infrared, which we think of as radiant heat. All of these parts of the spectrum are vital to reptiles.

UVB is needed for vitamin D3 synthesis in the skin. It also has direct effects upon the immune system and skin cell division, and may even enable synthesis of endorphins - the "feel-good factor" of sunshine.

Short-wavelength UVA works alongside UVB in preventing overproduction of D3 and also has a protective effect against cell damage from UV light. Both UVA and UVB stimulate long-term changes in the production of melanin and, possibly, other pigments in the chromatophores.

Longer wavelength UVA (from about 350nm) is visible to reptiles - it is a "color" in their rainbow. Iridophores can reflect it; certainly many reptiles have UVA markings as a result. UVA is therefore a necessary component in reptile lighting.

What about visible light? We think we know why this is important to a reptile.... for vision. But that's only half the story. Light penetrates through the body of a reptile - through the skull - and light-sensitive cells in the brain. In those species, which have one, the parietal eye (third eye) responds also to green and blue light. These light-sensitive cells then relay information about the intensity and duration of the light to the parts of the brain which control diurnal and annual circadian rhythms - setting the body clocks for sleeping, waking, activity levels, seasonal behavior.

Another element to consider is infrared. Although it is invisible to us, infrared is readily experienced by all species as radiant heat. It is absolutely vital to all basking reptiles; behavioral studies suggest that they associate it with bright visible light - presumably because in nature, that's what sunlight is! I will also add that the final stage of vitamin D3 synthesis requires warmth, so for basking species, UVB lamps should be positioned over the basking zone.

4. Beside the major components UVB and UVA, your researches made me aware of another components that I often neglect, which are spectra and intensity of light. How important are those two in successful keeping of our reptile pets?

Anecdotal evidence suggests that reptiles are attracted to natural sunlight in preference to artificial light, and many keepers report astonishing changes in activity levels when reptiles are given access to natural daylight. Both the intensity of the light and the quality of the spectrum are probably playing a part. Since every reptile has evolved to thrive best in its natural habitat, I am absolutely convinced that replicating the natural lighting of a species in its microhabitat is a major key to success.

First, lets talk about the spectra.

Sunlight produces a perfect "rainbow" - the spectrum contains vast amounts of light in all wavelengths - all colors. Artificial light sources are very different to natural sunlight.

Incandescent lamps (tungsten and halogen "basking lamps") have continuous spectra (light in all wavelengths, rather like sunlight), but the shortest wavelengths are largely absent. There's no UVB, only small amounts of long-wavelength UVA and not a lot of purple and blue. So they are great for providing yellow, red and infrared, but little else.

Fluorescent tubes and compact lamps rely upon mercury vapor and phosphors to produce light. These don't produce continuous spectra - the easiest way to think of their light is in terms of a small number of "spikes" of light in a few basic colors - purple, blue, green, yellow - which the human eye and brain blends together, so we think we see white. So-called 'Daylight' phosphors produce slightly more continuous spectra with some light in the wavelengths between the "spikes"; other phosphors produce light in the UVA and UVB ranges.

Unfortunately, it's hard to know what a reptile actually sees when it looks at fluorescent tubes. Most reptile eyes have four color cones in the retina, responding to different wavelengths from our three. Does he see the light as white? Or does it have a weird color cast? We do not know.

Mercury vapor lamps (MV) don't usually have phosphors, so the main visible light is solely from the "spikes". If the lamp is self-ballasted, there's also a tungsten filament so there's a little yellow and red from that; but it doesn't improve the color balance of these lamps very much. Even to human eyes, these lamps produce light that never looks quite right.

A fluorescent lamp or MV lamp can be combined with an incandescent lamp, to get the best of both worlds. The tubes or mercury vapor lamps provide the UVB, UVA and most of the blues; the incandescent lamps add yellows and reds. It's not ideal, but it's an improvement over either lamp on its own. Friends of mine who keep chameleons have reported great success with both of these "combos," with the actual lamps chosen to provide appropriate levels of UV, heat and light for the relevant species, of course.

Metal halides may be the best solution to date. They operate on the same principle as the MV lamp, but they produce many "spikes" representing most colors across the entire spectrum. Some "Daylight" versions such as the Iwasaki/ Eye Lighting Color Arc 6500K lamp have spectra that, in the visible range, are very much like the sun. My colleague Andy Beveridge was astonished at the positive way his C. quadricornis responded to light from metal halides.

Unfortunately there are very few of these, which have been designed to emit UVB as well. ReptileUV are developing a UVB-emitting halide in their "MegaRay" range, which looks very promising. In Europe, Lucky Reptile (a German company) has launched a range known as the "Bright Sun UV" series. The spectra of these also look promising. Long-term studies are under way here, with samples from both of these companies.

In the meantime, excellent results should be possible using high quality UVB fluorescent tubes in combination with metal halides. Of course, once again, the intensity of light and of UV from such combination must be appropriate for the species.

Which brings me on to the next point: the intensity.

Our eyes are designed with pupils, to control the amount of light reaching the retina and keep the light level inside the eye within strict limits, to optimize vision. That is why we have no problems living indoors all day with approximate light levels of 1,000 lux, and are not consciously aware that this is little better than outdoor light a few moments after sunrise. And, yet at mid-day, outdoors, bright sunlight may provide 100,000 to 150,000 lux. Reptile eyes can adjust to the light just like ours. So what is the problem, once the light in the vivarium has a reasonably natural spectrum?

This is the point at which I like to speculate, because I know of no direct evidence to support my theory. However, consider this: The light-sensitive cells in the parietal eye and in the brain itself do not have a pupil to shield them. They are designed to register the intensity of natural sunlight.

The lizard evolved to walk out under the sun. if 100,000 lux shines down upon the top of his head, how many lux do you think flood through his skin, through his skull bones or the gaps between them, and reach the parts of his brain that program his activity levels and set his body clocks, stimulate serotonin synthesis, and tell him "hey, it's mid-day and it's mid-summer"?

Now put him in a cage and give him only a fluorescent lamp that emits just 500 lux at 12 inches distance. How many lux reach those light-sensitive cells now?

I am not saying we need to re-create the full brilliance of the mid-day sun indoors, even for the most hardened desert sun-worshipper. But, I do think we need to throw out any notion that reptiles - even crepuscular species - can be kept in gloomy tanks with just a ceramic heater and a dim fluorescent tube. Even nocturnal species may peer from their daytime hiding places at the bright sunlight outside.

Drs. Lynnette Sievert and Victor Hutchison in Oklahoma conducted a research over 20 years ago. They put Tokay geckos in three different situations. In one, there was only diffuse, soft lighting throughout the enclosure during the 12-hour day. In the second, there was a very bright light over the warm end of the tank, and in the third, the bright light was over the cold end - something that wouldn't happen in nature. The geckos, being nocturnal, didn't do a great deal when the lights were on. But they were markedly affected by what they perceived. The "diffuse light" and "bright warm light" groups showed clear differences in their body temperatures during the day and at night - they thermoregulated more accurately, and maintained their body temperature higher at night than they did during the day. But the "bright cold light" group behaved quite differently. Their body temperatures hardly varied between day and night, and they actually thermoregulated less accurately during their nightly activity period.

To be continued to Part II----------------

A Chat With Dr. Gary W Ferguson

2008-07-28T18:26:00.000-07:00

Photo courtesy of Dr. Gary W Ferguson

Dr. Gary W Ferguson is a renowned name in the world of herpetoculture. He is acknowledged for his scientific publications in the ecology, behavior, evolution and nutrition of lizards. He focuses his research on Panther Chameleons, Furcifer Pardalis. Dr. Ferguson's studies had helped many people in fine-tuning the proper environmental management for chameleons in captivity. Currently, he has just retired from teaching at Texas Christian University. But, he is still actively involved in herp-related researches.

My question in red
Dr. Ferguson's answer in blue

Interview date: February 29, 2008

1. What start your journey in chameleon studies, Dr Ferguson?
I had become fascinated by old world chameleons from books and pictures as a teenager. However, I never had a chance to see one until I was in graduate school in 1967. A student in a herpetology class I was taking brought in one that he had collected in Spain. My next contact with real chameleons came when the large pet-trade importation from Kenya began in the late 1970’s. Jim Murphy, curator of reptiles at the Dallas Zoo at that time, had purchased several for the zoo and some of the Jackson’s had babies. He donated a pair of babies to me at TCU in 1977 and the rest is history. I started my first scientific study of them in 1980 with a trip to Kenya. After another trip to Kenya in 1983 several of us published in 1988 the description of Chamaeleo jacksonii xantholophus from Mt. Kenya.

2. In your Panther book, you talk about 5-15uW/cm2 of UV-B for 12 hr/day. I've measured the levels at the basking site (Reptisun 5.0) and have kept the UV-B levels near your recommendation for my Panthers and Veiled chameleons for years with no problems. In addition, with good So Cal beach weather, they get to go outside (100-300uW/cm2) on weekends, weather permitting. Many of us are familiar with keepers/breeders who use MV UVB sources with levels 50-100uW/cm2 12hr/day that "appear" to be successful at keeping them for years at those levels and claim some visible benefits. I suspect that the chameleons are doing a decent job at regulating their exposure levels on their own. I'm sticking with your levels but I'm interested in anything you have to add to your previous conclusions!
-Q Dave Weldon-
One of the problems with measuring UVB irradiance is that different brands of meters give different readings from the same light source. The 5-15 recommendation was given at a time when we were using only Spectroline meters. The current spectroline meters (if indeed that are still available) are impractical for herpetoculture use because they read only in 10-microwatt increments, i.e. the resolution is poor for the low irradiances we are interested in. The more important recommendation was to provide a UVB source with maximum level that cause between 0.18 and 1.52 percent conversion of provitamin D to photoproducts in 2 hours in the ampules we have been using. Bill Gehrmann and I have been testing several meters to determine the relationship between readings and provitamin D conversion. The readings from the Solartech 6.2 meter that give the 0.18 to 1.52 percent conversion are about 10-50 microwatts per cm2. If the maximum source is higher and the lizards have an opportunity to photo regulate be moving in and out of the High UVB zones that is fine. That is what they do outdoors. Remember our study involved "involuntary doses" and the animals were on a low vitamin D diet. What they need will vary with diet and could vary between animals and populations.

3. We work hard to improve the CA-Ph ratio of our non-WC feeders. What research data is available on the Ca: Ph of the diet of wild chameleons?
-Q Dave Weldon-
There are no data that I am aware of regarding Ca P dietary intake in the wild. Most people assume that a 1.25-2:1 Ca: P ratio is good in the diet because that is approximately what you get in the blood of healthy animals. However, animals are probably pretty successful at regulating to those levels regardless of the intake ratio, providing the diet contains some of each compound and isn't too deficient in either. Let me hasten to add that I am not a physiologist or nutritionist, so this may not be a good explanation of things!

4. After reading your Thesis "Do Panther Chameleons Bask to Regulate Endogenous Vitamin D3 Production," I learned that chameleon in general produces its own D3 when exposed to Sunlight, what is your recommendation on supplementing vitamin D3 to chameleons in captivity- specifically to those who allows their chameleon to bask under the real sunlight for at least once a week? Is there a way to know how much do they actually need? Do chameleons have some kind of innate sense to avoid UVB when they have enough D3 in their body?
I recommend little to no dusting of insects with vitamin-mineral supplement containing Vitamin D3 unless the animals get no UVB. Even then, there is a risk of giving too much. Many of the commercial cricket feeds contain vitamin D3. I think that is ok to use those feeds regardless of the UVB environment of the chameleon. Crickets probably don’t gut-load enough from those feeds to cause vitamin D-toxicity. Unfortunately, dose-response studies for dietary vitamin D have not been systematically done like our dose-response study for UVB in the 2002 article. So, dietary requirements are mostly guesswork. However, Larry Talent successfully raised panthers to maturity without UVB and measured the dietary levels of vitamin D by injecting it directly into their mouths. I think I gave the recommended doses that he used in my book (oral solutions of Vitamin D3: 25 IU/week). I fully believe the claims of breeders who say they have raised and bred panthers with only dietary D. However, I do think that panther chameleons have a “sense” of their internal vitamin D-condition and can regulate their exposure to UVB accordingly. It makes a lot more sense to me to let the animals decide how to regulate their vitamin D-condition via exposure to UVB than us by guessing at appropriate dietary levels. If the chameleon fails to do this, I think it is because some artificial light sources confuse them. When the UVB source is in one part of the cage and visible light and heat is in another, they may have trouble judging the proper exposure. I have seen a couple of examples of this in large artificially lit zoo enclosures. While chameleons can burn their skin or their eyes with too much UVB or UVC (see Frances Baines website for info), they can’t harm themselves with overproduction of vitamin D. At some point of UVB exposure only inert photoproducts that aren’t toxic are produced in the skin.

5. As far as Chameleon's adaptation, I heard that some reptile species have pigmentation of the coelomic cavity and organs. The theory is that it helps absorb light and heat, or that it may help reflect solar radiation depending on the species. Is that also true for chameleon specifically for veiled and panther?

I have dissected a lot of panther chameleons and they do have some coelomic pigmentation but I can’t recall exactly how much and how it is distributed. Basking lizards in general do have dark pigmentation surrounding either the coelomic cavity or vital organs such as the gonads. Those that are more exposed to UV seem to have more, e.g. sun-loving vs. shade-loving anoles. In most cases that I am aware, these pigmentation layers can allow UVB penetration of the skin, which is where vitamin D synthesis takes place. There is a study of Kenyan chameleons by Al Bennett of U Cal Davis that shows that chameleons do alter their reflectivity of UVB of their skin somehow but the mechanism is not clear.

6. Since we are still in the topics of nutrition, what is your standing on the necessity of supplementing a preformed vitamin A VS beta-carotene?
I went through a period where I gut-loaded crickets with carrots but deprived them of preformed vitamin A and the chameleons developed vitamin A deficiency. This was surprising because humans can use beta-carotene for our vitamin A needs. So, I recommend using preformed vitamin A either as a direct supplement or in insect feeds.

7. Are you familiar with the reason why they cannot convert beta-carotene into Vitamin A? Also, how is it in the wild, they satisfy their need of Retinol? As a chameleon keeper, this topic seems to be controversial among people. Is there a more thorough study that addresses this matter?
I don’t know why the carotene in carrots couldn’t be converted. It could be that other carotenes in the guts of wild plant-eating insects can be. It could also be why panthers sometimes occasionally eat lizards and nestling birds, which should be a good source of retinol. I think it is a good idea to feed panthers large pinkies or small lizards, such as anoles, occasionally, if they will eat them. There indeed needs to be more study on this subject.

8. What is your recommended dosage of preformed Retinol for chameleon in captivity? Is there some kind of rules or some educated guess, for a lack of better words, to help chameleon keepers to sort out this confusion of varying degrees of nutrition requirements in an individual chameleon?
Larry Talent at Oklahoma State University gave his panthers 50 IU of retinol in corn oil solution once a week and had no A-deficiency symptoms.

9. Geophagy behaviors often found among the chameleon (Panthers and Veiled) in captivity and, unfortunately, very little is unknown of why this behavior often surface. My chameleon, regardless of all my attempts in enriching the feeder's nutrition and supplementation, is also one of the guys that practice this behavior (I sift the soil and throw away all the large lump to avoid possibility of impaction). In your opinion, what is the reason behind this behavior?
I have never witnessed geophagy or read about it, except one time. Once I witnessed a captive Parson's devour a shelf fungus that happened to be on a log in its cage. The only explanation that makes sense to me is that the animal senses some trace nutrient or mineral. A lot of lizards, e.g. geckos and Sceloporus, will lick mineral supplements out of a dish.

10. Why are there different colorations found in furcifer pardalis in different locality?
-Q Justin Carl-
The bottom line about color differences is, of course, I do not know. However, I speculate that in F. pardalis there has been a lot of population bottlenecking throughout the range and that differences among current populations in male coloration has resulted from evolution by genetic drift, i.e. I don’t think there is yet good evidence for adaptive evolutionary causes for the current differences. The more interesting color difference is the ability to rapidly change the entire head and body color during social displays in eastern populations and the more gradual seasonal changes in western populations that only allow rapid color change around the eye turrets and face. Eastern populations probably evolved in heavy rainforest habitat while the western populations probably evolved in more seasonal savannah habitat. In the east it may be more important for males to remain dark-colored most of the time to absorb heat when it is more overcast and only “brighten up” temporarily throughout their daily activity when they court or combat. Who knows? There are some interesting geographic difference in both F. oustaleti and F. lateralis. In both of these species the differences are more among the females than among the males. I think that F. pardalis, F. oustaleti and F. lateralis each represent a collage of yet-undescribed cryptic species that future taxonomists, using DNA data will discover.

11. I have always wondered about a certain behavior that chameleons display. Why do they go brighter and lighter during sleeping? In my simple reasoning, this seems to be contradictory to evolutionary behavior. Why go all the trouble camouflaging itself in the day and go bright during the night where some predators are active?
The behavior (movement, repositioning expansion etc.) of chromatophores (pigment bearing skin cells) is an energy dependent process. At night chameleons simply shut down the active process, chromatophore pigments contract, and the animal lightens. Because their natural nocturnal predators are not dependent on color vision, there has been no natural selection for them to maintain the active process while they sleep, just for them to save energy. We are new "color-vision" predators that exploit the conspicuousness that results when they are sleeping. Rest assured that should we be around long enough to exert significant natural selection, nocturnal cryptic coloration will possibly evolve in those exploited species (1000 to10, 000 generations or so down the line).

12. While we are still talking about panther colorations and locality, what are your thoughts on the practice of breeding different locality panthers?
Regarding the crossbreeding of color variants. I see no problem with herpetoculturist doing this. I have done a little of it myself. Since some of these crosses result in unsuccessful propagation, it is important in the buying, selling, trading game that it be crystal clear about which specimens are hybrids and which are not. Furthermore, if an animal is a hybrid it is important to know who the parents were, if it is a backcross etc. As genetic techniques and knowledge advances, herpetoculturists may be able to have simple genetic identity kits that allow identification of the genetic makeup of an individual of unknown history. This is still a long way off.

13. Regarding crossbreeding on panthers, many shunned the practice in defense of preserving the genetic traits and the possibility of reintroducing the specific locale species into the wild (in case the risk of extinction happened), what is your comment in regard to these thoughts?
Most of the breeding products of herpetoculture are done with the idea of the pleasures and profits of keeping herps in captivity. For this, “genetic purity” doesn’t need to be a high priority, although I think that keeping track of genetic heritage is always useful for promoting the industry and helping explain breeding anomalies. For the captivity-oriented breeders neither hybrids nor “pure” individuals should be reintroduced into wild populations because they are likely to be different genetically (i.e., more homozygous and/or possessing odd alleles or genotypes) from wild stock and could affect the natural gene pool. The idea of captive breeding with the purpose of reintroducing stock back into the wild involves different goals and dictates that breeding stock be kept as naturally pure (i.e. not hybridized with individuals from very different populations) but as heterozygous genetically as possible (i.e. not inbred). Such programs are a high priority among zoos with some involvement by universities and the private sector. Here studbooks and very rigorously controlled out breeding protocols are essential.

14. What is your advise for herp hobbyists in successful keeping of chameleon?
My advice to herp hobbyists just starting out on chameleons is to start small. Get one large juvenile or half-grown individual of a species known to be hardy in captivity from a reliable captive-breeding source. Do your homework before you purchase an animal. Make sure you are willing and able to get the proper setup before you purchase your animal. Be aware of animal's light, temperature and humidity requirements. Be prepared to devote quality time daily to your animal so you can get to know the subtle signals that all is well or not well. However, do not over-react to perceived signs of distress. Healthy chameleons are pretty tough. Bigger is not always better with regard to food, vitamin-mineral supplements, cage-size, cage-ornamentation etc. In general, plan to keep your chameleon one animal per cage. Enjoy your experience and don't be too frustrated if your first chameleon doesn't do well. Be aware that they can become addictive. You may catch the dreaded disease: Chameleophilia!

15. What next for you, Dr. Ferguson? Any new research or new books coming out?
As a new retiree from academia and having a relatively healthy 67-year old mind and body, I plan to remain active in herp research for as long as possible. My current interest is in ultraviolet light and behavioral UV-vitamin D photo regulation, i.e. increasing our understanding of how lizards and snakes perceive and utilize ultraviolet light to regulate their vitamin D-condition. I am working with the Fort Worth and Dallas Zoos and with several colleagues to focus on ultraviolet cage environments. Basically, we are collecting and using data from lizards and snakes in the wild to document the normal UV exposures in their various types of environments. From this we are establishing guidelines for setting up UV sources and gradients in larger and smaller enclosures. We are working closely with Frances Baines and Steve Makin to evaluate artificial light sources and solartech meters. We plan to establish a detailed set of guidelines for the zoo and herpetoculture community on the proper use of UVB for various species. Stay tuned for the fruits of our labors.

Thank you Dr. Ferguson for this wonderful opportunity and your insightful answers.
I wish you more success for your researches.
Cannot wait for your new books! :)
Thanks, Frans; It has been fun ! I like your blog !

Chameleon Basic Physiology

2008-03-28T18:25:00.000-07:00

A. Tongue Action (reference source: Chameleons: nature's hidden jewel 1st ed Petr Necas) .

Step I - III
I. "Registration"
The chameleon notice a movement. the prey is then located and determined as edible. During this step, chameleon calculates the exact position of the prey for accuracy.

II. "Localization" (see picture box #1 and 2 by Robert Salas below)
The chameleon focus both of its eyes and move slowly to close the distance between him and the prey. And, he moves slightly forward.

III. "Protrusion" (see picture box #2 and 3 by Robert Salas below)
This signified by the chameleon opening his mouth and protruding his tongue slightly. A sign that he is ready to shoot at any moment.

Step IV "Projection" (see box #1 by Paul Kartsub below)
When the chameleon is ready, its tongue will immediately be shot at a high speed toward the prey. Usually, chameleons instinctively focus to shoot for the insect's head to minimize retaliation from the prey. Once catapulted, the chameleon cannot halt the tongue in the middle of action.

Step V "Retraction" (see box #2 and 3 by Kartsub below)
As the tip of the tongue become somewhat extended in width, the tongue is then pulled backward creating a vacuum/ suction motion (think of their tongue to somewhat similar to straw). On top of the muscle that able to hold the prey, the suction stabilizes the prey preventing them to be able to break loose easily. Contrary to popular beliefs, chameleon tongue (although somewhat sticky) are covered with moisturizing agent. So, they do not depends on the stickiness of their tongue as much as they depend on gripping and vacuuming.

Notice the bent tongue in the 3rd photo from the top by Kartsub. The bent area is the point where the Hyoid bone ends.

Step VI "Consumption" (see box #4 by Kartsub above and box #1 by Kartsub below).
During retraction, once the tongue is in close proximity to the mouth, the chameleon will close both of his eyes by reflex to avoid injuries from the struggling insects.
The next step is pretty obvious. The chameleon will bite hard to deliver a fatal blow to the prey .

Chameleon's Anatomy 101C (Tongue)

2008-03-03T15:23:00.000-08:00

The position of the Hyoid Bone in the tongue. In reality, the muscle tissue would wrapped the Hyoid Bone inside.

Here are views of the tongue:

The tongue has 2 motions to ensure the prey will not be able to escape: Gripping and Vacuuming, as you can see in the picture provided.

Images are used with permission from www.chamaeleon-terraristik.de

Chameleon's anatomy 101B (Panther)

2008-03-02T11:52:00.000-08:00

Notice in the first picture, the chameleon is in action (protrude Hyoid).
The second picture, the chameleon's Hyoid is safely tucked under the jaw bone.

Chameleon's anatomy 101A (Veiled)

2008-03-02T11:42:00.000-08:00

Male Veiled Chameleon Skeleton

Male Veiled Chameleon Skull

Gross Anatomy of Female Veiled Chameleon

used with permission from www.chamaeleon-terraristik.de

The organs shown are artificially "colored" to help us view them better. The intestine color, however, remain untouched.

Coping with Loss

2008-02-29T23:17:00.000-08:00

Little note from me:
I thought it is important to touch on this sensitive subject.
Dr. Jeff Feinman wrote the article in his site.
Special thanks to Dr. Jeff who gave me the permission to post this in my blog.
You can find the original article by clicking this link.

Coping With the Loss of a Pet

Author: Dr. Jeff Feinman

Grieving

Our pets live relatively short lives. For many of us who love our pets, their death can affect some of us even more than the death of a relative or friend. The death of a pet leaves few people totally untouched.

A pet may come to symbolize many things to each of us. It may represent a child, perhaps a child yet to be conceived or the innocent child in us all. It may reflect the ideal mate or parent, ever faithful, patient and welcoming, loving us unconditionally. It is a playmate and a sibling. It is a reflection of ourselves, embodying negative and positive qualities we recognize or lack in ourselves. The same pet may be all of these, alternating between roles on any given day or for each member of the family.

When a pet dies, we expect that our pain will be acknowledged, even if it is not shared, by our relatives, friends and colleagues. Though the bond between you and your pet is as valuable as any of your human relationships, the importance of its loss may not be appreciated by other people. The process of grieving for a pet is no different than mourning the death of a human being. The difference lies in the value that is placed on your pet by your family and by society as a whole.

Your grief may be compounded by lack of response from a friend or family member. Realize that you do not need anyone else's approval to mourn the loss of your pet, nor must you justify your feelings to anyone. Do not fault anyone who cannot appreciate the depth of your grief for a pet. The joy found in the companionship of a pet is a blessing not given to everyone.

Seek validation for your pain from people who will understand you. Speak with your veterinarian, a veterinary technician, groomer or another pet owner. Ask for a referral to pet grief support groups or veterinary bereavement counselors in your area. The death of a pet can revive painful memories and unresolved conflicts from the past that amplify your current emotional upheaval. Seek comfort in the support of professional counselors or clergy.

This is an opportunity for emotional growth. Your life was and will continue to be brighter because of the time that you shared with your pet. This is the best testament to the value of your pet's existence.

Five Stages of Mourning

The stages of mourning are universal and are experienced by people from all walks of life. Mourning occurs in response to an individual's own terminal illness or to the death of a valued being, human or animal. There are five stages of normal grief.

In our bereavement, we spend different lengths of time working through each step and express each stage more or less intensely. The five stages do not necessarily occur in order. We often move between stages before achieving a more peaceful acceptance of death. Many of us are not afforded the luxury of time required to achieve this final stage of grief. The death of your pet might inspire you to evaluate your own feelings of mortality. Throughout each stage, a common thread of hope emerges. As long as there is life, there is hope. As long as there is hope, there is life.

Denial and Isolation: The first reaction to learning of terminal illness or death of a cherished pet is to deny the reality of the situation. It is a normal reaction to rationalize overwhelming emotions. It is a defense mechanism that buffers the immediate shock. We block out the words and hide from the facts. This is a temporary response that carries us through the first wave of pain.
Anger: As the masking effects of denial and isolation begin to wear, reality and its pain re-emerge. We are not ready. The intense emotion is deflected from our vulnerable core, redirected and expressed instead as anger. The anger may be aimed at inanimate objects, complete strangers, friends or family. Anger may be directed at our dying or deceased pet. Rationally, we know the animal is not to be blamed. Emotionally, however, we may resent it for causing us pain or for leaving us. We feel guilty for being angry, and this makes us more angry.

The veterinarian who diagnosed the illness and was unable to cure the disease, or who performed euthanasia of the pet, might become a convenient target. Health professionals deal with death and dying every day. That does not make them immune to the suffering of their patients or to those who grieve for them.

Do not hesitate to ask your veterinarian to give you extra time or to explain just once more the details of your pet's illness. Arrange a special appointment or ask that he telephone you at the end of his day. Ask for clear answers to your questions regarding medical diagnosis and treatment. Discuss the cost of treatment. Discuss burial arrangements. Understand the options available to you. Take your time. Both you and your veterinarian will find that honest and open communication now are an invaluable long-term investment.
Bargaining: The normal reaction to feelings of helplessness and vulnerability is often a need to regain control. If only we had sought medical attention sooner. If we got a second opinion from another doctor. If we changed our pet's diet, maybe it will get well. Secretly, we may make a deal with God or our higher power in an attempt to postpone the inevitable. This is a weaker line of defense to protect us from the painful reality.
Depression: Two types of depression are associated with mourning. The first one is a reaction to practical implications relating to the loss. Sadness and regret predominate. We worry about the cost of treatment and burial. We worry that, in our grief, we have spent less time with others that depend on us. This phase may be eased by simple clarification and reassurance. We may need a bit of helpful cooperation and a few kind words. The second type of depression is more subtle and, in a sense, perhaps more private. It is our quiet preparation to separate and to bid our pet farewell. Sometimes all we really need is a hug.
Acceptance: Reaching this stage of mourning is a gift not afforded to everyone. Death may be sudden and unexpected or we may never see beyond our anger or denial. It is not necessarily a mark of bravery to resist the inevitable and to deny ourselves the opportunity to make our peace. This phase is marked by withdrawal and calm. This is not a period of happiness and must be distinguished from depression.

Pets that are terminally ill or aging appear to go through a final period of withdrawal. This is by no means a suggestion that they are aware of their own mortality, only that physical decline may be sufficient to produce a similar response. Their behavior implies that it is natural to reach a stage at which social interaction is limited. The dignity and grace shown by our dying pets may well be their last gift to us.

Explaining Pet Loss to Your Child

It is natural to want to protect our children from painful experiences. Most adults, however, are surprised to find how well most children adjust to the death of a pet if they are prepared with honest, simple explanations. From a young age, children begin to understand the concept of death, even though they may be unaware of it at a conscious level.

When a pet is dying, it may be more difficult for a child to resolve the grief experienced if the child is not told the truth. Adults should avoid using terms like "put to sleep" when discussing euthanasia of a family pet. A child could misinterpret this common phrase, indicating the adult's denial of death, and develop a terror of bedtime. Suggesting to a child that "God has taken" the pet might create conflict in the child, who could become angry at the higher power for cruelty toward a pet and the child.

Children are capable of understanding, each in their own way, that life must end for all living things. Support their grief by acknowledging their pain. The death of a pet can be an opportunity for a child to learn that adult caretakers can be relied upon to extend comfort and reassurance. It is an important opportunity to encourage a child to express his or her feelings.

Two- and Three-Year- Olds: Children who are two or three years old typically have no understanding of death. They often consider it a form of sleep. They should be told that their pet has died and will not return. Common reactions to this include temporary loss of speech and generalized distress. The two- or three-year-old should be reassured that the pet's failure to return is unrelated to anything the child may have said or done. Typically, a child in this age range will readily accept another pet in place of the dead one.

Four-, Five-, and Six-Year-Olds: Children in this age range have some understanding of death but in a way that relates to a continued existence. The pet may be considered to be living underground while continuing to eat, breathe, and play. Alternatively, it may be considered asleep. A return to life may be expected if the child views death as temporary. These children often feel that any anger they had for the pet may be responsible for its death. This view should be refuted because they may also translate this belief to the death of family members in the past. Some children also see death as contagious and begin to fear that their own death (or that of others) is imminent. They should be reassured that their death is not likely. Manifestations of grief often take the form of disturbances in bladder and bowel control, eating, and sleeping. This is best managed by parent-child discussions that allow the child to express feelings and concerns. Several brief discussions are generally more productive than one or two prolonged sessions.

Seven-, Eight-, and Nine-Year-Olds: The irreversibility of death becomes real to these children. They usually do not personalize death, thinking it cannot happen to themselves. However, some children may develop concerns about death of their parents. They may become very curious about death and its implications. Parents should be ready to respond frankly and honestly to questions that may arise. Several manifestations of grief may occur in these children, including the development of school problems, learning problems, antisocial behavior, hypochondriacal concerns, or aggression. Additionally, withdrawal, over-attentiveness, or clinging behavior may be seen. Based on grief reactions to loss of parents or siblings, it is likely that the symptoms may not occur immediately but several weeks or months later.

Adolescents: Although this age group also reacts similarly to adults, many adolescents may exhibit various forms of denial. This usually takes the form of a lack of emotional display. Consequently, these young people may be experiencing sincere grief without any outward manifestations.

Reasons for Euthanasia

We are never quite prepared for the death of a pet. Whether death is swift and unexpected or whether it comes at the end of a slow decline, we are never fully aware of what a pet has brought to our lives until our companion is gone.

Our involvement with the final outcome may be passive. We may simply not pursue medical or surgical treatment in an aging pet. Perhaps its ailment has no cure and the best we can do is alleviate some of its suffering so that it may live the remainder of its days in relative comfort. An illness or accident may take it suddenly.

Everyone secretly hopes for a pet's peaceful passing, hoping to find it lying in its favorite spot in the morning. The impact of a pet's death is significantly increased when, as responsible and loving caretakers, we decide to have the pet euthanized.

Euthanasia is the induction of painless death. In veterinary practice, it is accomplished by intravenous injection of a concentrated dose of anesthetic. The animal may feel slight discomfort when the needle tip passes through the skin, but this is no greater than for any other injection. The euthanasia solution takes only seconds to induce a total loss of consciousness. This is soon followed by respiratory depression and cardiac arrest.

Doctors of veterinary medicine do not exercise this option lightly. Their medical training and professional lives are dedicated to diagnosis and treatment of disease. Veterinarians are keenly aware of the balance between extending an animal's life and its suffering. Euthanasia is the ultimate tool to mercifully end a pet's suffering.

To request euthanasia of a pet is probably the most difficult decision a pet owner can make. All the stages of mourning may flood together, alternating rapidly. We may resent the position of power. We may feel angry at our pet for forcing us to make the decision. We may postpone the decision, bargaining with ourselves that if we wait another day, the decision will not be necessary. Guilt sits heavily on the one who must decide. The fundamental guideline is to do what is best for your pet, even if you suffer in doing this. Remember that as much as your pet has the right to a painless death, you have the right to live a happy life.

Each of us mourns differently, some more privately than others, and some recover more quickly. Some pet owners find great comfort in acquiring a new pet soon after the loss of another. Others, however, become angry at the suggestion of another pet. They may feel that they are being disloyal to the memory of the preceding pet. Do not rush into selecting a replacement pet. Take the time to work through your grief.

To help you to prepare for the decision to euthanize your pet, consider the following questions. They are intended as a guide; only you can decide what is the best solution for you and your pet. Take your time. Speak with your veterinarian. Which choice will bring you the least cause for regret after the pet is gone?

Consider the following:

What is the current quality of my pet's life?
Is my pet still eating well? Playful? Affectionate toward me?
Is my pet interested in the activity surrounding it?
Does my pet seem tired and withdrawn most of the time?
Is my pet in pain?
Is there anything I can do to make my pet more comfortable?
Are any other treatment options available?
If a behavioral problem has led me to this decision, have I sought the expertise of a veterinary behavior consultant?
Do I still love my pet the way I used to, or am I angry and resentful of the restrictions its condition has placed on my lifestyle?
Does my pet sense that I am withdrawing from it?
What is the quality of my life and how will this change?
Will I want to be present during the euthanasia?
Will I say goodbye to my pet before the euthanasia because it is too painful for me to assist?
Will I want to wait in the reception area until it is over?
Do I want to be alone or should I ask a friend to be present?
Do I want any special burial arrangements made?
Can my veterinarian store the body so that I can delay burial arrangements until later?
Do I want to adopt another pet?
Do I need time to recover from this loss before even considering another pet?

Please note: The information provided here is meant to supplement that provided by your veterinarian. Nothing can replace a complete history and physical examination performed by your veterinarian. - Dr. J

The article was originally posted on April 4, 2009 1:17 PM. However, the date posted on the thread will be 2/29/08 11:17 PM. The reason for this discrepancy is due to Google blog system that only allow me to classify articles based on time it was written. So, in order to keep the blog tidy and the articles to be classified under the right subject, I have to change the posted date listed to February. As you can see, February folder deals with care and health problems.

Health Section I- Conclusions

2008-02-29T20:54:00.000-08:00

With all the “common” diseases I presented (with “miscellaneous” chapter keep expanding), it is not uncommon that the facts tend to overwhelm beginners. This also affects me when I was a first timer. I thought there are too many things to tackle and too many diseases to watch out for.

But, you should not be discouraged. Keep on reading and learning facts about your marvelous chameleon pet.
I have compiled a few general tips for you:

Happiness of your chameleon begins from a proper care and a good husbandry. Problematic elements in the husbandry produce discomforts. And, prolonged discomforts will eventually stress your chameleon. Stress is your worst enemy in keeping your chameleon healthy. It weakens their immune systems. And, if ignored, it will eventually lead to mortality. Notice that almost 90% of the diseases I presented in the health chapters can be tracked back to improper cares. Therefore, please educate yourself in the correct husbandry and care for your chameleons to ensure a healthy long life for them.
Provide the best for your chameleon’s sake. Research, research, and research. The most horrible thing you can do is playing a role of vet when your chameleon needs the real one. If you do not have any access to an exotic vet nearby, you might want to find one soon before your chameleon gets sick.
It is important for you to spend quality times with your chameleon daily. Be aware that “quality” time does not mean handling and bugging your chameleon (no pun intended). But, rather observing them in the captivity. Develop an acute sense of your chameleon “normal” routines. Once you develop that sense, you will be able to spot any ‘weird’ behavior(s) exhibited by your chameleon. Approach that with calm manner and do not over react. Check your husbandry, temperature, and humidity. See if there is a fluctuation and anomaly that need to be corrected. Assess if the behavioral change are hormonal issues (sexual maturity), psychology issues (such as seeing another chameleon or its own reflection in the room), supplemental and diet issues, and/or the actual health issues. I bet you have heard from someone or read an article to this extend “chameleon is a fragile animal. They often die out of nowhere.” That statement is truly a faulty idea. Chameleon does not die out of nowhere. Chameleon is not as fragile as we thought. As a matter of fact, they are tough creatures. They are so tough that they often do not develop any obvious symptoms until the disease is in advanced stage. Therefore, the owner’s task is to develop a “motherly” instinct in detecting the early symptoms.
Symptoms are often a sign to an underlying problem that needs to be corrected soon. The most infamous sign of a sick chameleon is closing eyes or sleeping during the day. Unfortunately, it only tells you that there is something wrong. Closing eyes can pretty much means anything from too much UVB to hypovitaminosis A. Therefore, it is imperative to consult to your trusted vet. Your good assessment combined with your vet expertise can usually tackle a lot of the health problems.

Be aware that one illness might mask another illness. Such as gout can mask a more serious organ failure. Therefore, I cannot stress the importance of consulting with your trusted vet more than this.

Here is a good case study of this situation:

The owners of the chameleon (named “Scooter”) are very knowledgeable in chameleon husbandry. They provided a correct setup and the chameleon has been growing wonderfully.

Until winter 2007, it suddenly stopped eating for a week. And, soon, it developed a new symptom: its hind legs and tail begun to lose strength and completely paralyzed in no time. The owners went to the vet that same day. X-rays were taken. And, the vet suspected that it maybe the case of an impaction. The vet gave Scooter a shot of calcium, some de-worming treatment, and a bottle of calcium to give daily.

The owners also give a very small dose of mineral oil to scooter with his daily force-feeding of water and calcium to help to pass the impaction. After a full 2-3 weeks of no eating or movement from his back legs, he finally released the impaction.

The owners made another appointment for that day to have scooter checked up on. They brought a stool sample from that day for the vet to look at. And, the stool contained a numerous population of coccidia.

It has been known that coccidia in chameleons can also cause impactions. The vet gave the owners 2 weeks worth of medication to kill off the coccidia. Scooter, soon, regained his health and has been climbing happily.

If your chameleon seems to die out of nowhere, you might be interested in doing a necropsy to find out what exactly kill yours. You can definitely do it on your own if you are knowledgeable enough. Or, you can have your vet do it for you. Necropsy is a very valuable learning experience.
Sometimes no matter how good a keeper you are, the stress of captivity and the seriousness of the illness can overwhelmed your chameleon. If it succumbs to its illness, regardless of everything that you have done, do not be discouraged. Learn from the experience to not repeat the same mistake.

Hope that helps!

Health Section H- Miscellaneous Problem (in progress)

2008-02-29T20:53:00.000-08:00

Avoid putting your chameleon in a small and constricting cage because you need to save space. You should know in advance that having a chameleon would require you to sacrifice your time and your space. If you cannot provide those, you should not consider having a chameleon as a pet.
Chameleons will almost always prefer to be outside than inside. Be aware letting your chameleon to have access view to outside environment can tempt him to try to escape. Some will try and soon give up since the screen will block them. But, others might be headstrong and insist on escaping. Hence, the rostral rubbing begin. I am not saying that you should limit the access of outside view for your chameleon, I am just telling you to be aware of the possibility of inflicting stress to your chameleon.

Symptoms to watch out for:

Blister and/or scarification tissue on your chameleon’s nose
Eagerness to get out of the enclosure.
Infections

Treatment:

Get him a bigger enclosure. Limit the access of outside view for a while.
Topical ointment such as Silvadene cream, Neosporin, or Zymox can be used to avoid infection.

B. MISSING TOENAILS

FACTS:
It is a condition where reptiles (in this case chameleons) slough their toenails.
According to Geraldine Diethelm, in the article “Digit Abnormalities,” There are 4 causes that can lead to this condition (Mader, Reptile Medicine and Surgery: 2nd ed, pp 774-5):

Trauma. Such as cuts and abrasions. If the injury is not treated, an infection then might developed that can lead to loss of toes.
Dysecdysis (retained shed) around the digits can lead to this condition also by cutting off the blood circulation.
NHSP (Nutritional Secondary Hyperparathyroidism) can cause swelling around the digits and limbs.
Microorganisms that cause infections such as salmonella, Escherichia coli, mycobacterium spp that are found in joint cultures and interdigital lesions.

This certainly cannot be ignored as chameleons are arboreal and depend on their appendages and nails to climb.

Prevention:

Although most of chameleons will do fine in the standard aluminum screen cage, some of them (especially the one that loves climbing on the screen) can accidentally get their toenails caught in the screen. The injury can often lead to missing toenails. If possible, use a bigger screen size (1/8”) than the usual (1/16”) mesh. Some companies give you the option. When you purchase a custom cage, ask if they have bigger size screen mesh.
If you have already purchased the usual screen cage, you can also line the inside with a plastic chicken wire.
Maintain proper humidity for your chameleon.

Symptoms to watch out for:

Blister and/or swelling on your chameleon’s toes
Infections
Loss of toes (duh! ^_^)

Treatment:

Fix your husbandry
Clean the wounds
Topical ointment such as Silvadene cream, Neosporin, or Zymox can be used to avoid infection.
If the cause are microbial, go to the vet to get the appropriate anti microbial therapy.

Health Section G -Burns

2008-02-29T18:55:00.000-08:00

BURNS

Avoid putting light bulb inside of the cage and/or directly on top of the enclosure where your chameleon skin can have physical contact with the bulb.
Monitor the basking temperature routinely, especially during extreme weather.
Do not use high wattage bulb when it is not necessary.
Understand during extreme temperature drop, your chameleon might seek to get closer to the heat bulb and not realized the danger of burn (chill shock).

Symptoms to watch out for:

Black, gray, blister, and/or necrotic tissue on your chameleon skin
Infections

Treatment:
When you go to the vet, most likely your vet will clean the wound and use sterile dressing.
Your vet might prescribe some topical ointment such as Silvadene cream
If infection occurs, some antibiotics will be needed.
Deep burns will need more aggressive treatment (i.e.: culture, sensitivity, and/or debridement) done by your vet.
Let the scab fall of on its own. Do not try to peel it off!
chameleon with thermal burn case recovers very slow. Therefore, persistence and patience of the owner are needed.

B. UVB BURN

Case Study:
The chameleon above is a case study presented by my friend, Dave Weldon. Recently, he had a chance to work with a UVB Burn related case. He is an expert in UVB related issues with chameleon.

Lighting used on the cage: Zilla™ Desert 50 bulb (Fortunately, the company had issued a recall of the product). They also put some advisory notice and an imperative instruction for you to properly install the light.
Please discontinue the use, if you have this series as your chameleon UVB source!

FACTS:

UVB Burn is exactly what it sounds. It is a condition where your chameleon is over exposed to a dangerous level of ultraviolet radiations. UVB burn can happened to all creatures on earth. Fortunately for us, humans, we can easily escape from scorching UVB ray by going indoors or wearing sunscreen, but the same cannot be said to your chameleon that stuck inside of the cage 24/7.

UVB Burn is a serious health hazard that can kill your chameleon in a short amount of time. Many beginners are usually more worried whether they are providing enough UVB for their chameleon that they often think the more UVB exposure the better.
This kind of thinking is quite dangerous. UVB is very beneficial for your chameleon. But, an over exposure of UV radiation can quickly deteriorate your chameleon’s health.

Here is an excellent site where you can educate yourself about your reptile’s UVB need.

As I do not consider myself knowledgeable enough as far as UVB requirements, I have decided to ask someone with a better understanding about this matter.
So, here goes (red is my question, lavender is Dave Weldon’s answer):

Q: How do I know I am providing enough UVB for my chameleon?
A: There are several ways to look at the question. You can assume that you are providing enough UVB if you are using one of the recommended UVB light sources at the proper distance and your chameleon takes advantage of it by basking many hours a day. You can improve the odds by measuring the UVB energy using a Solarmeter 6.2 UVB meter at the basking spot to insure that you actually have 5 to 15 uW/cm2. Another way to answer the question is by evaluating the health of your chameleon. A skeletal x-ray can show if the bone density is acceptable or not. A blood test can also shed some light on circulating calcium levels. However it is possible that the levels are being maintained by pulling calcium from bone. This is essentially how MBD occurs. The bottom line is to avoid experimentation and use the best UVB source with a proven track record with chameleon keepers. Use it the way that other experienced keepers recommend.

Q: What are the prevention methods of UVB Burn?
A: This question really falls in line with the previous Q. Aside from just using the recommended Reptisun 5.0 linear tube positioned at the proper distance; using a Solarmeter 6.2 UVB meter will insure that levels are proper. Getting UVB burns is usually only caused by using an improperly designed UVB source or a UVB source that is not designed for individual use. For example a UVB source designed for Zoo applications rather than our typical chameleon enclosure would likely cause serious overexposure and likely cause UVB burns if a chameleon were able to gain access to close proximity of that source.

Q: Help. My vet is available only next week. My chameleon has a bad case of UVB burn. What should I do in the mean time?
A: Find another vet :-). Actually chameleon having a UVB burn is a rare occurrence. The more often case is burn caused by heat; in effect, basking lamp overexposure can be treated with Silvadene cream to minimize the chances of bacteria problems. It may take many weeks for the skin to slough-off, scab-over, and otherwise heal. Scaring will be permanent.

Prevention:

Provide your chameleon with a foolproof and recommended UVB bulb.
If you have the extra cash, purchase the Solarmeter to get an accurate reading of the UVB radiation emission by your bulb.

Symptoms to watch out for:

Scab and reddish or dark burn on your chameleon skin
Lethargic, Sleeping during the day.
Closing one eyes or both

TREATMENT:
Early detection plays an important factor. The sooner you treat it, the better the chance your chameleon will survive. This is the area where an exotic vet visit is a must.
If you suspect it is a UVB burn, then discontinue using the fluorescent light and substitute it with the recommended brand.

Health Section F -Gout and False Gout

2008-02-28T22:44:00.000-08:00

GOUT & GULAR EDEMA

Happened in the area of number 1 is Primary Gout = this type derived from excessive intake of protein and/or failure in amino acid metabolism.
Happened in the area of number 3 is Secondary Gout =this type derived from renal failure. The crystal urate, then, turned into crystallized deposits (tophi) that find their way into your chameleon organs (visceral gout), around the joints (peri articular gout), and joints (articular gout).

Prevention:

Avoid feeding your chameleon with high protein diet. Your chameleon is a low protein (insects) eater. Therefore, feeding him with high protein (mammals and other vertebrates, i.e.: pinky mice and anoles) feeder EXCESSIVELY can raise the risk of him getting gout.
Avoid feeding your feeder (such as roaches) with high protein gut load (cat food, dog food, and fish flakes). These gut load are fine for your roaches but NOT for your chameleon. If you need your roaches to establish a colony, you may feed them dog food. But avoid feeding the roaches to your chameleon while they are in the dog food regiment. I recommend taking out the roaches that are about to become your chameleon's food and put them on the vegetable gutload diet for at least 24 hours, to ensure there is no more traces of dog food in the roaches' guts.
Monitor the hydration status of your chameleon closely. Dehydration is also a common cause of renal disease that leads to gout.

Symptoms to watch out for:

Swelling joints and reduced mobility (articular gout).
Your chameleon looked painful when climbing or walking (due to this, gout is often misdiagnosed as arthritis).
Over aggressiveness from your chameleon when his joints are touched.
Anorexic and excessive drinking behavior.

Treatment:

Go to the vet ASAP.
Depending on the severity of the case, your chameleon might have to undergo a surgery to remove the excessive tophi.
Prescription medications to dissolve crystals.
Increased misting and water supplies for your sick chameleon.

Please be aware that this disease is very complex. And this chapter has covered nothing but the surface. Gout is an extremely serious condition that needed attention fast. So, consult to your qualified vet.

Sources:
Kenneth Lopez, D.V.M article
Ivan Alfonso, D.V.M article

B. Gular Edema

Dave Weldon's chameleon Case Study:

"The panther appeared to have gular edema. The vet verified through blood tests that it wasn't kidney failure but a poor Ca:Ph ratio of 1:2 instead of 2:1 likely brought on by diet (not enough calcium or too much phosphorus). He prescribed 0.1cc a day of Mylanta for a couple of weeks. The Mylanta binds-up excess phosphorus and lets it be excreted. Another blood test was done and the ratio was back to 2:1 where it should be."

(Please realize that this case study is presented to educate people the importance of consulting to the vet BEFORE registering a treatment. Without consultations, trying to cure gular edema is the same as walking on top of a thin bridge blindfolded. There are too many complex elements in dealing with this disease. Each chameleon is unique and there is NO such thing as one standard treatment for all Gular Edema cases).

BE AWARE that the solution presented in this case study might NOT be the solution for your chameleon. Therefore, I STRESSED it again to CONSULT your VET.

FACTS:

This is the area where everything is a bit murky and undefined. I will try my best to explain what I know from my research about this. If any of you out there can help me in providing more information about this, please send me a message.

According to Adcham.com glossary, Gular Edema is basically a buildup of fluid in throat and neck. As far as I know, Gular Edema is a clinical sign of body unbalance and the symptom of organ failure in correcting the imbalance.

Due to my difficulty in finding thorough facts about this, I decided to ask Dr. Matthew Wheelock about Gular Edema. This is his reply:

Edema usually occurs when there are less proteins flowing in the blood stream. The proteins do other things, but in this case it causes an osmotic level that usually keep fluids within the blood vessels. When the blood is carrying less protein than the "stuff" in the tissues around it, it will cause the interstitial space (in the tissues) to fill with fluid causing edema.

Since edema is usually gravity dependent, this is why feet and hands/ or legs tend to get edematous first. (This is where it gets iffy...) In the chameleon, I imagine that cervical or gular edema is also due to gravity. I imagine that a chameleon that normally hangs on a branch in the down position would cause edema to be in the front end. Since they don't have a diaphragm, I imagine that the neck might be more prone than the front legs. (Just a hypothesis.)

So, why edema in the first place? Usually there are three reasons for low albumin/total proteins:

Loss
Destruction
Not creating them

In this case it is usually 3. Hypervitaminosis usually causes mineralization in the major organs. The one specific to this conversation is the liver. The liver not only filters excess items (some vitamins and minerals), it is where most of the total proteins in the blood is made.
So destruction of the liver = edema. In chameleons, this usually manifests in gular edema.

With the above being true, any liver problem, or destruction, or loss of total blood proteins would cause this problem, not necessarily just hypervitaminosis A.

Prevention:

Provide adequate supplements (not too much and not too less)
Monitor the hydration status of your chameleon closely.

Symptoms to watch out for:

Swelling joints
Swelling Throat and neck region

Treatment:
Go to the vet ASAP. So, he/she can diagnose the exact cause of this disease.

Health Section E -Parasites

2008-02-28T22:37:00.000-08:00

PIN WORM

-photo courtesy of Dave Weldon-

PARASITES

WARNING: This health chapter is written in hope to educate new chameleon owners to recognize early symptoms of sickness. Many of the pictures shown in health chapter are an advanced case of the disease. If your chameleon exhibit symptoms like these, it is HIGHLY advised for you to bring your chameleon to an exotic veterinarian as soon as possible. This article should NOT be used as a substitute for a vet visit. Please be a responsible pet owner. The author cannot be held responsible for any abuse or form of misused of the post. The identity of the sick chameleon's owner(s) is kept hidden to respect their privacy.

Case Study of my chameleon:

Cage Type: 28X18X50 (in.) an Aluminum Screen cage.
Lighting: Zoomed basking spot lamp 75 watt & Reptisun tube 5.0 (UVA and UVB bulb)
Temperature: >60F degrees at night and between 70-80 in the day. 87-89 degree basking area.
Humidity: 40-60%.
Misting session: 4 times a day
Length of misting session: 5 minutes.
Plants: Hibiscus, Ficus, 2 Pothos.

The first time I checked the fecal was a week after I purchased my chameleon. The fecal test yielded a negative result for parasites (October 2007).

On mid January 2008, I got a chance to have a free fecal float test. Therefore, I submitted the fecal sample. It was also yielded a negative result for parasites.
On last weeks of January 2008, Paul threw a hunger strike. He refused to eat silkworms and hornworms that I had for him and only wanted to eat bugs. I went to a local reptile store to purchase crickets. Unfortunately, this is where I suspect my chameleon got infected. This is the only thing “foreign” from my usual care (I rear my own insects feeder except for crickets).

Columbus relished the crickets until I notice he stopped eating them on February 5, 2008. I went back on my silkworm batch and he started eating the worms diet again. On Thursday February 7, 2008, I notice a considerable change in his grip. He usually gripped my hands strongly when I moved him for his usual sun-basking regime. I put Paul’s stool in a zip lock bag and called the animal hospital for a fecal float.

After couple of minutes, I saw one intestinal nematode crawl out of the fecal and died. I immediately schedule the vet visit for that day. And, my chameleon was tested positive for nematodes and coccidia. The vet gave me a Panacur and an Albon to administer.

This case is presented in this blog to educate people of the importance of noticing early symptoms of abnormality in your chameleon behaviors, having a regular fecal test (at least once a year), maintaining cleanliness of the enclosure, and being careful of where you buy your feeders.

FACTS:

Parasitosis is a common health problem encounter in captivity both for veteran keepers and beginners. It often exists in WC chameleon than the CB one. However, be aware that this is not exclusive to wild caught chameleons. This is one of those problem that can happen to your chameleon at any time. You can certainly reduce the risk by maintaining sanitary habit and preventing cross contamination. But, it will not prevent your chameleon from getting it at all. Therefore, it is always important to be alert at all time for symptoms and have a fecal test done once or twice a year.

Parasitism is a health problem that can be hazardous overtime. Most parasites live “harmoniously” inside your chameleon’s body as long as your chameleon’s immune system is active enough to suppress the parasites reproduction rate. A new owner should realize the need to deworm their WC chameleons and quarantine it from other chameleon to avoid cross contamination.

There are basically three common types of parasites that are troublesome to your chameleon (be aware that beside these three there are another types):
A. Protozoan type (i.e.: Coccidia): This usually found in your chameleon’s digestive track and live under control of your chameleon’s immune system. As soon as there is a shift in the chameleon’s ability to suppress them, there will be huge outbreak that can severely affect your chameleon. Coccidia can be fatal to baby and juvenile chameleons. It has also known to cause impaction in chameleons.

B. Nematodes (Subcutaneous and Intestinal. i.e.: Roundworms, Pinworms)
The subcutaneous is basically the parasites that have “wandered” off under your chameleon’s skin. An outline of the worm under your chameleon skin might become visible. When you see it, you can bet that inside his body, there are intestinal parasites as well. Sub cutaneous nematode is rare to be found in US based Captive Breed chameleon. This type of parasites, often carried by mosquitoes, are plenty in Madagascar, Africa.

Most case you will find in CB chameleons are pinworms and roundworms, and the common “culprits” are improper cage cleaning, cross contamination from other animals (such as reptilians, another chameleon, and feeder –crickets, etc-)

C. Hemoparasites
This type can be found floating in your chameleon’s blood stream. A simple fecal float test will not detect this type of parasites. A blood sample has to be taken to make sure.

Since the treatment for Parasites (i.e.: Panacur) requires a precise dosage, you need an exotic vet consultation on the best way to safely kill the parasites without harming the chameleon itself. Although very rare, coccidia and nematodes such as round worm and pin worm are transmittable to human, mammal, and fellow reptilians.
I am aware that most parasites are host specifics, but I always uphold the importance of cleanliness and sanitary ritual when handling your chameleon (especially the one infected with parasites).

Prevention:

Maintain sanitary ritual vigorously. Clean your chameleon cage once a week. Do not leave poops and urates overnight. Wash your hand before and after cleaning the cage or handling your chameleon.
Avoid purchasing crickets from dirty pet stores. If possible, ask the store staff how they keep their feeders. Go and investigate, especially if they are willing to show you where they keep them. A hesitation is usually not a good sign. If they have nothing to hide, they won’t mind showing you their feeder’s room. An abnormal dirty and improper feeder room are signs telling you to run. If your chameleon contracts parasites out of nowhere and you have always keep your feeder in clean condition, you should consider changing your feeder supplier (this is the lesson that I learned the hard way).
Avoid swapping “furniture” (feeder cup, dripper system, vines, and plants) that is used for different chameleons. A used cage is a way to safe money. HOWEVER, be a smart owner. Assume the worst when you purchased a second hand cage. Wash the whole cage with a solution of bleach (water: bleach ratio = 10:1) and rinse it well. You should also blast the cage with hot steam (be careful of burning risk), sun dried the cage for several hours before using the cage for your chameleon.
Avoid feeding your chameleon a wild caught insect. Not only they might carry parasites, they also can have pesticide and other volatile chemical trace.
Be aware that introducing your chameleon to another chameleon (for breeding purpose) can contain a risk of infecting your healthy chameleon. Only approve to breeding agreement with somebody you trust.

Symptoms to watch out for:

Anorexic, sudden burst of appetite not followed with growth
Thin belly or beer belly
Lethargic or Restlessness.
Feces or vomit contains visible parasites (for certain parasite only. Most are invisible to the naked eye), smelly, runny, and/or bloody stool.
Sunken eyes.
Visible worm like outline under your chameleon’s skin.

Picture of the visible parasite infested stool:

TREATMENT:
Early detection plays an important factor. The sooner you treat it, the better the chance your chameleon will survive. This is the area where an exotic vet visit is a must. There is no other way. Experimenting treatment for this type of disease is extremely hazardous for your chameleon’s health.

Most common therapy for nematodes are Panacur. Currently, in US, there is no cure for Coccidia. Albon does not kill coccidia. It only halts the reproduction cycle. Other countries (i.e: Canada) has already found a medicine (Appertex and Ponazuril) that actually obliterate Coccidia.

Side Notes: Be aware that Albon may cause a nasty side effect to your chameleon (not true in all cases). Many chameleon keepers, including me, reported that their chameleons completely stop eating altogether after Albon therapy. I had to quit the therapy and force feed Paul for a while.
After the experience, a friend of mine and his vet recommend the usage of Ponazuril as an alternative.
Ponazuril worked wonder and, during the therapy, Paul exhibited no side effect.

Meanwhile, the sick chameleon’s cage and furniture should be quarantined from other chameleons in your house to avoid cross contamination. Sanitary becomes extremely important. Use paper towel at the bottom of the cage. If the paper towel has made a contact with the feces, you should take it out of the cage immediately.

Coccidia in particular is a parasite that you do not want to get. It is a nasty creature that are extremely hard to get rid off. I suggest you wear nitrile gloves when you handle your sick chameleon. And, then wash your hand with soap before and after handling. The cage will need to be cleaned in extreme manner.
Bleach does not kill coccidia. Only hot boiling water (a steamer is said to work great to disinfect the cage) and ammonia will. Please AVOID mixing BLEACH with AMMONIA. The fumes will kill you instead. The live plants you used in the cage are pretty much rendered useless. You might be better off by throwing away your plants and never introduce them anymore inside your reptile cage to avoid reinfestation.

Health Section D -Respiratory Infection

2008-02-26T17:59:00.000-08:00

RESPIRATORY INFECTION

Avoid having too low temperature in your chameleon’s cage. Play around with different wattages bulbs to see which work better to maintain the recommended temperature for your chameleon (please see the veiled and panther chameleon care 101A).
Avoid creating a constantly wet cage condition with no air ventilation. Allow a complete drying time in between misting. Too much stagnant humidity, as well as not enough humidity, can lead to the case of RI (refer to care 101C).
Avoid using enclosure that promotes poor ventilation such as an aquarium. In order for a cage to have proper ventilation, it needs to have at least 2 screen sides. An all screen cages is a very good enclosure for your chameleon.
Practice good hygiene habits when caring for anything that related to you and your chameleon. A dirty stagnant water source and insect cultures can increase the risk of RI.

Symptoms to watch out for:

The presence of increased mucus in the chameleon’s mouth.
Weird noise accompanied with breathing (popping, crackling, purring, or cat-like sounds). Try to keep your ear closed to your chameleon and listen carefully for these sounds.
Labored breathing by gasping and opening its mouth even in the low temperature range. In the morning, chameleon does yawn like human. Such activity is normal.
Lungs often overly inflated.
Some swellings the forehead (between eyes) and even eyes (looked puffy) can occur.
Snoring during sleeping.

TREATMENT:
Early detection plays an important factor. Since the cure process requires aggressive antibiotic treatments (such as Baytril or Fortaz), DIY treatment should be HIGHLY discouraged. An exotic vet’s expertise is definitely needed in this case. The vet will be able to pint point the cause (fungal, bacterial, secondary to nutritional or environment). Treatment can last to a month and need to be followed by an after care for another month to prevent the disease from coming back.

Be aware that Baytril is a strong antibiotic and might prove to be too harsh for your chameleon's body. To avoid kidney and organ failure, I recommend to watch out for your chameleon's hydration status.

Meanwhile, the enclosures should be corrected (if this is the case). The temperature should be kept to an optimum range for your sick chameleon. Maintaining the POTZ (Preferred Optimal Temperature Zone) will rev up your chameleon's metabolism allowing him to fight the infection more effectively. Furthermore, humidity should also be reduced or added depending on the case.
GENERALLY (not always the case), adding humidity would be a proper choice as the extra humidity will allow the excess phlegm to move loosely.

Health Section C- Impaction

2008-02-26T01:11:00.000-08:00

IMPACTION

WARNING: This health chapter is written in hope to educate new chameleon owners to recognize early symptoms of sickness. Many of the pictures shown in health chapter are an advanced case of the disease. If your chameleon exhibit symptoms like these, it is HIGHLY advised for you to bring your chameleon to an exotic veterinarian as soon as possible. This article should NOT be used as a substitute for a vet visit. Please be a responsible pet owner. The author cannot be held responsible for any abuse or form of misused of the post. The identity of the sick chameleon's owner(s) is kept hidden to respect their privacy.

Case Study:

I used the color "red" to highlight the underlying problem
Cage Type: 10 gal aquarium.
Lighting: ZooMed reptisun 5.0 flourescent uvb bulb and a ZooMed 60 watt basking bulb (at night: 65-70 F) and (at day: 75-80 F). (Basking area: 85-90 F)
Humidity/ Misting session/ Length of misting session: 50 to 70%/ twice a day + Constant Humidifier/ (N/A)
Plants: Fake plants and fake vines.
Diet: 7-10 quarter inch Crickets as staple feeders. Zoomed calcium is used every other feeding. Feeders are gut loaded with Flukers orange cubes, Flukers high calcium cricket feed, many veggies and fruits such as oranges, apples, carrots, lettuce and other greens, grapefruit, grapes, and bee pollen granules.
Substrate: Yes. Wood Barks.

Picture of the impacted chameleon's husbandry:

After series of forum conversations, sadly, this was another example of improper husbandry. The owner told me that he bought the chameleon from a reputable reptile store at a reptile expo. The store sold him the barks and recommended him to put the barks in the enclosure. The owner set up the enclosure per advice of the store. The chameleon stayed in the condition for 1 month without a problem. Some sleeping during the day occurred once in a while.

One day, the chameleon started to be acting weird and was shaking his head around and then would stretch his neck out almost like a wolf howling. Since he grabbed a couple more crickets right after that, the owner left the premise thinking that the chameleon was fine. When he came home, the owner found his veiled chameleon dead (see the picture above). The chameleon vomited a big roll of cricket parts.

Unfortunately, the chameleon discussed has been buried before a necropsy can be done.
However, the possible situation is that the chameleon tried to hunt the crickets hiding under the bark and accidentally ingested the substrate or a cricket that was too large (unlikely, since the owner claim that he never gave the baby chameleon crickets bigger than 1/4 inch).

The bark then most likely lodged and blocked the chameleon's air passage or other internal organs. This is another textbook example of why substrate is not recommended for chameleons enclosure.

With the owner's permission, the case is presented in this blog to educate people of the necessity of proper husbandry methods and the importance of extensive researches about chameleons care. It is the customer responsibility to familiarize themselves to the basic care.

FACTS:

Impaction is another common health problem encounter in captivity. It is extremely fatal if not treated as soon as possible. In the simplest explanation, impaction is basically a blockage in Chameleon’s digestive system or any other internal organs mostly caused by large foreign objects and/or feeders. Another common name for digestive system impaction is “constipation”. Impaction can severely block the vent of your chameleon, making it impossible to defecate or even to breathe. The body then has no choice but to reabsorb the feces. The toxic wastes in the feces will later cause severe breakdowns in organ functions. An untreated impaction can lead to fatality. A chameleon owner has to be alert if his/her chameleon starts to show the symptoms of impaction. A light impaction can be treated at home. But, once the treatment does not show any improvement, a visit to the vet is a must. The longer you wait, the more likely your chameleon will die.

In certain unfortunate case where choking is involved (such as the one discussed above), the emergency is immediate and the chameleon impacted has to be brought to a vet ASAP.

The best way, as usual, to cure an impaction is by prevention. Use your common sense in this matter. Here are some prevention methods that you can take:

A lot of people love the idea of using substrates in their chameleon’s enclosure mainly due to aesthetic and humidity reasons. However, substrates are more of a nuisance than anything. Free roam crickets often love to hide inside the substrate layer. This rises the possibility of your chameleon accidentally ingest the substrate while hunting for foods. The risk even becomes higher to those of you who own a veiled chameleon. Some veiled chameleons love to ingest dirt for unknown reasons. Having substrates in the enclosure is a recipe to disaster. The substrate can block your chameleon's air passage and digestive system. Even further, substrate are often become a breeding ground for bacteria that can be problematic to your chameleon’s health.
Avoid feeding your chameleon with feeders that are larger than the width of his forehead (exception apply to soft bodied insects such as hornworms, silkworms, etc). Another thing to avoid is feeding your chameleon too many insects.
Avoid having plastic decorations and foreign objects in the cage that can be easily swallowed by your chameleon (such as plastic grapes attached to your fake plants, gravels that are small enough for your chameleon to eat, potting soils that contain wood bark and wood chips).

Symptoms to watch out for:

No fecal activity for several days (more than 4 days) regardless being fed. Baby chameleons should defecate daily. Some Juveniles and adult might skip a day or two. Always look for the presence of feces in the enclosure.
The chameleon often tries to defecate but nothing comes out.
In some cases, the chameleon looked bloated.
In advance cases, the impacted condition often can pinch your chameleon’s nerves causing a paralysis (usually the back leg).
The chameleon refuses to eat.
The chameleon exhibit symptoms like choking.

Comparison Pictures: N/A

TREATMENT:
If impaction detected early, the treatment is quite simple. Misting more often and prolonging the time per session is recommended. The extra humidity will help him in this area. It is imperative to mist him with warm water. You can put hot water (NOT BOILING) inside your spray bottle so that when you mist him, warm water will come out of the nozzle. This warm misting therapy will induce your chameleon reaction to defecate.

If your chameleon is old enough (5 months or older), a "shower" method can be used to help your impacted chameleon. DO NOT SHOWER BABY CHAMELEONS. The water droplets can clog its nostril and cause it to drown.
Please refer to Health Care: Dehydration chapter for “how to shower your chameleon.”
Lots of misting and shower will be beneficial to help your chameleon overcome this.

Mineral oil/ cod liver oil can be administered orally about once a week to help “lubricate” your chameleon intestine.

If the treatment does not prove to be effective by several days (2 days), a vet visit is in order. If the treatment works, you will see a bigger than usual feces successfully expelled from your chameleon’s body.

When choking is involved, you need to go to the vet right away. It is considered an emergency case.

Health Section B- Metabolic Bone Disorder

2008-02-24T23:26:00.000-08:00

METABOLIC BONE DISORDER

WARNING: This health chapter is written in hope to educate new chameleon owners to recognize early symptoms of sickness. Many of the pictures shown in health chapter are an advanced case of the disease. If your chameleon exhibit symptoms like these, it is HIGHLY advised for you to bring your chameleon to an exotic veterinarian as soon as possible. This article should NOT be used as a substitute for a vet visit. Please be a responsible pet owner. The author cannot be held responsible for any abuse or form of misused of the post. The identity of the sick chameleon's owner(s) is kept hidden to respect their privacy.

Case Study of the chameleon pictured below:

I used the color "red" to highlight the underlying problem
Cage Type: 38 gal mesh cage (Reptarium). Before, he was placed in 10 gal aquarium.
Lighting: 75-Watt compact UVB, and 100-Watt Full Spectrum basking spot Temperature, ceramic heat lamp: (at night: no lower than 65) and (at day: 75 F). (Basking area: 95 F)
Humidity/ Misting session/ Length of misting session: N/A
Plants: Fake plants and fake vines.
Diet: Crickets and Meal worms as staple feeders. No supplements used. Feeders are gut loaded with Flukers gut load and orange slices.
Substrate: Yes. A carpet.

Picture of the chameleon's husbandry:

After series of forum conversations, sadly, it was another example of improper husbandry due to a lack of research. The owner told me that he bought the chameleon from a local breeder a month ago. It already had a slight curvy/bowed legs; during that time, the owner did not know what an MBD legs looked like. He/She thought that the bowed leg was normal for a chameleon. To make things worse, the breeder did not bother to alert the new customer of what was going on with the chameleon the customer purchased. Therefore, the owner failed to see the progressive MBD development over time. The chameleon also received a poor steady diet of non supplemented cricket and MEAL WORMS. The gut loads were used solely without addition of fresh fruit and vegetables.

The owner, after the chameleon stopped eating, force-fed it with 1 cc Flukes Aid twice a day. It no longer pooped daily and also fell once in a while from the tree. During we first conversed, the owner did not realize that his/her chameleon got a severe MBD. Unfortunately, regardless of the vet visit and active treatment, the chameleon passed away.

With the owner's permission, the case is presented in this blog to educate people of the necessity of proper husbandry methods, the importance of extensive researches about chameleons care before purchasing one, and the significance of buying chameleons from a REPUTABLE breeder or STORE. Remember, a big retail chain store or somebody you know does not always necessarily practice an honorable business when it comes to selling chameleon. A lot of people are poorly educated in chameleon's care. Therefore, it's easy to sell sick chameleon to those poor victims. It is the customer responsibility to educate themselves to avoid getting swindled.

FACTS:

Metabolic Bone Disorder (MBD), aside from dehydration, is another most common death of chameleons in captivity. It is extremely fatal if not treated as soon as possible. If treated early, the chameleon can survive and live a quite normal life. Unfortunately, the condition of the limbs is irreversible. The best way to cure MBD is to prevent it from happening at all.

MBD is a degenerative disease caused by poor ratio of Calcium and Phosphorus in the chameleon’s body. The chameleon’s bone structure is destroyed progressively, until the bone no longer able to support the chameleon’s body. Many numbers of causes can lead to MBD. But, the most common thing comes from poor nutrition, poor or lack of supplementing, and the absence of UVB light in the husbandry. Unfortunately, captive breed chameleons often get this debilitating sickness due to the owner’s lack of knowledge in the proper caring facts.

Please refer to the LIGHTING paragraph in chameleon care 101A and the FEEDING facts in chameleon care 101D for proper chameleon caring.

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Dr Matthew Wheelock has written an excellent article about MBD and Supplementation:

An Overview of Calcium Supplementation
By: Matthew Wheelock, D.V.M

Calcium supplementation is a topic that continues to plague the community of chameleon owners, breeders, and enthusiasts. How much do we give? How often do we give it? Do we give it with or without vitamin D3? Do we have to give it in addition to a multivitamin? and on, and on.... There doesn't seem to be any real consensus. If you ask different successful breeders and enthusiasts, you may get significantly varying opinions on how to supplement. Additionally, what works for one chameleon owner could be certain death for another owner's chameleon.

WELL, WHY IS THAT?!!!

In the following article I will "attempt" to explain a number of variables in the metabolism of calcium that may help a keeper determine their own supplementation protocol. Please Note- There is no way to completely cover this subject in one article. At best, this is a starting point for understanding calcium and supplementation thereof. This article will discuss 1) general facts and terminology, 2) how calcium is absorbed and how D3 is synthesized/acquired, 3) what nutritional secondary hyperparathyroidism and renal secondary hyperparathyroidism have to do with this, and 4) the potential for hypercalcemia and the possible risks/consequences for over supplementation.

1) General Facts and Terminology

Roughly 2% of a chameleon's weight is made up of calcium. Bone is the most commonly recognized source. However, about 1% of body calcium is found outside the bone and is a very active player in various and important body systems. Heart function, nerve conduction, muscle contraction are only a few systems dependent on stable levels of calcium.

In reptiles-	Calcium to phosphorus ratio- should be 2:1 (Actual reference ranges will/may vary from species to species, though the ratio will be roughly the same.) Calcium in the blood serum has two forms: ionized and unionized.
Ionized-	This is the biologically active form. It is circulating and available for use.
Unionized-	This is a form that is already bound to other complexes (primarily proteins (albumin) in the blood.) Total serum calcium is roughly 50% ionized and 50% unionized.

It is important to note that many factors may be involved in getting a correct reading of these levels. For instance, if albumin is low, there may be a lower unionized ratio of calcium, and a higher ionized form. If pH is high, it will decrease the ionized form. Vitamin D3 is essential for one form of calcium absorption while estrogen helps to maintain calcium levels. We also know that stress and old age lower calcium absorption. The point is that a myriad of dueling chemical systems make it hard to establish normals for chameleons in general, let alone, subspecies and regional differentiations.

Add to this the fact that we don't know how much calcium will be absorbed by a particular chameleon. Some species absorb what's needed and excrete the rest without ever absorbing the unneeded portion. Some chameleons absorb extra calcium and excrete what is not needed by way of the gall bladder and urinary systems. Some chameleons excrete calcium solely by way of the urinary system.

External stimuli affect absorption too. Sudden increases in dietary fat lower calcium absorption. Dietary fiber, plant phylates and oxalates also affect absorption�

Summary- Lots of factors affect the metabolism of calcium. Since each chameleon is unique in this respect, the owner will have to tailor a specific supplementation protocol to fit that particular chameleons needs.

2) How Calcium is absorbed and how Vitamin D3 is synthesized / acquired

In order to understand the main concepts of supplementing calcium, it is important to discuss Vitamin D3 in its relation to UVB lighting.

How is Vitamin D3 synthesized / acquired?
There are 2 primary methods for obtaining vitamin D3-
a) synthesizing it from exposure to ultraviolet B radiation
b) consuming a vertebrate that synthesized the hormone through exposure of the sun.

The production of vitamin D3 occurs as a result of the photosynthetic conversion of 7-dehydrocholesterol to pre-vitamin D3 (UVB represents the range of light considered important for synthesis of D3.) Pre-vitamin D3 is converted to vitamin D3 via a temperature dependent process. At this point the hormone is transported to the liver where it is hydroxylated to 25-hydroxyvitamin D3. The kidneys serve as the site for the final conversion of the hormone to its active form 1,25-hydroxyvitamin D3 (Calcitriol).

Why is Vitamin D3 important and how does it relate to calcium?
Vitamin D3 is an essential hormone that plays many different important physiological roles. Its role in calcium metabolism is probably its most recognized function.

Vitamin D3 stimulates intestinal absorption of both calcium and phosphorus, thus causing a rise in blood serum calcium and phosphorus concentrations. Without vitamin D3, ingested calcium would not be accessible to the body.

That pesky parathyroid
The parathyroid is an endocrine organ that regulates the production of parathyroid hormone (PTH). PTH is important to this discussion because it maintains serum calcium within normal limits by affecting bone resorption, renal calcium excretion, and metabolism of vitamin D3.

What do we need to know about the parathyroid?
If circulating serum calcium levels are low, the parathyroid turns on production of PTH and in turn, vitamin D3 is secreted by the kidney. PTH stimulates osteoclastic activity (break down of bone) to put the calcium and phosphorus in the blood. Vitamin D3 stimulates the intestinal absorption of BOTH calcium and phosphorus, thus raising both serum concentrations.

PTH also stimulates the kidneys to increase excretion of phosphorus without loosing the calcium. This is important because D3 increases phosphorus absorption in the gut and PTH causes the breakdown of bone, also increasing phosphorus levels.

3) What do nutritional secondary hyperparathyroidism and renal secondary hyperparathyroidism have to do with this?

Most owners call all calcium deficiencies Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD). This is actually an incomplete term as there are many ways bone disease can be affected by metabolic pathways. The ones that concern us are nutritional secondary hyperparathyroidism and renal secondary hyperparathyroidism.

Nutritional secondary hyperparathyroidism (NSHP)-
NSHP is when there is an excessive production of parathyroid hormone (PTH) due to low serum calcium. Either there was 1) no available calcium in the diet, or 2) no available vitamin D3 to stimulate intestinal absorption. Regardless, no dietary calcium is absorbed into the bloodstream. Since no calcium is readily available for intestinal absorption, calcium is resorbed from the bones.

Consequences are weakening of the bones with secondary breaks and abscesses. Since calcium is also required all over the body, weakness, tremors, anorexia are also problems.

Renal secondary hyperparathyroidism (RSHP)-
RSHP is a consequence of renal disease and lost kidney function.

Remember-	the kidney (among other things) was supposed to 1) synthesize D3 and 2) respond to PTH and excrete excess phosphorus.
Problem-	No D3' No absorption of calcium No D3' the parathyroid continues to stay on to stimulate production of D3. Increasing levels of PTH continue to 1) break down bone and 2) intestinally absorb calcium and phosphorus, but now can't get rid of the phosphorus because of decreased kidney function.

Consequences- if mild, metabolic bone degeneration and continued destruction of the kidneys. Hyperphosphatemia and hypercalcemia unchecked will both cause death.

4) How do diet and supplementation tie into all of this information?

Under ideal conditions, reptiles would get:

a) Adequate natural light

b) A variety of food sources like their natural habitat. All nutrients and calories needed for growth, maintenance and reproduction.

If these conditions were met there would be no need for UV lighting and supplementation�

That is not how it is however; so, the ultimate question is how much and of what? Hopefully, by now, it is apparent why it is not that simple.

UVB lighting- UVB either comes from the sun or appropriate lighting. Optimal situations would provide natural sunlight. (Remember, glass filters UVB). However, since this may not always be an option, artificial sources of UVB may be used.

If sufficient UVB lighting is offered, this is a big step in naturally preventing MBD in a reptile housed inside. With the tubes and bulbs offered now a days, natural synthesis of vitamin D3 is the safest way of regulating calcium absorption. This assumes 1) there is adequate calcium in the diet, and 2) the bulb used is close enough for the animal to utilize and does not have significant burn out that causes less than optimal exposure to UVB.

Some experts might suggest under these circumstances, that supplements might not be necessary.

Food items- Variety is more readily available these days, but still does not simulate the variety in the wild. Additionally, some of the staple feeders used are not adequate in the calcium:phosphorus ratios. (Remember- should be 2:1) Crickets, mealworms and superworms are actually the opposite ratio. Pheonix worms and butter worms are good in ratio, but too high in fat.

This ratio in staple insects may be overcome by appropriate gut loading with appropriate legumes and greens and various formulated feeds. (Certain diets high in calcium may cause gut impaction in crickets.) If not, it may be necessary to supplement.

Supplementation- The jury is still out on the amount needed and the interaction between all the minerals and supplements. Do keep this in mind though: Chameleons use calcium according to their metabolic rate. Thus lowland species tend to require more calcium than montane species because they are maintained at warmer temperatures and have higher metabolic rates. Faster growing chameleons need more calcium than slow growers. Females with larger egg mass require more calcium than barren females or low producers. As a general rule, as calories intake increases, so should calcium intake.

Calcium with D3- If you have adequate UVB (by bulb or unfiltered natural lighting), calcium with D3 may not be necessary.

Unfiltered natural lighting- Animals that are outside in the sun more than 45 minutes a day should not be supplemented D3. The body will already be maximally generating its own D3. If D3 is consistently given dietarily, the pituitary will not be able to regulate calcitriol (active D3) that quickly and spikes of hypercalcemia will most probably occur. Over time, hypervitaminosis D and hypercalcemia will cause clinical signs of soft tissue calcification, depression, anorexia, excessive drinking, urination, and weight loss.

UVB lighting- There is probably some argument for supplementing D3 occassionally with animals only provided UVB lighting. Due to the narrow scope of some UVB bulb, evidence of varying burn-out times on UVB bulbs, and tendencies of the reptiles to not bask close enough to the bulbs, supplementation could be helpful. With occasional supplementation of D3 and artificial lighting, the body will most likely be able to regulate D3 production preventing hypervitaminosis D while decreasing the chance of hypocalcemia.

How much is "occasional supplementation?" This is still being debated. For those interested- The half-life of calcitriol is @48-72 hours in mammals, maybe longer in reptiles. Supplementing mild amounts of D3 no more than 1-2 a week may allow the body to regulate natural production and prevent danger of an overdose. This timeframe for clearance of D3 however may be longer�

So, how good do you feel about your UVB bulb? If your bulb is no good, or your reptiles refuse to bask close enough for it to be effective, maybe vitamin D3 is for you. If your UVB is good, and your reptile uses it appropriately, maybe vitamin D3 may still be for you in small amounts, or not needed at all.

Calcium without D3- If the UVB is working, the ideally the body will take only what is needs. However, excess dietary calcium by itself may inhibit the absorption of other trace minerals. Too much is still not good.

Multivitamins- This is probably a better source of complete supplementation overall BUT-if you are giving insects that have an inverse ratio of Ca:P, this may not be enough. Additionally, we still do not know the exact requirements for even the best researched reptiles as of yet. So, be careful, like calcium and vitamin D3, overdosing multivitamins can also cause toxic reactions

Wrap Up- There is no easy answer. Try to understand how your individual reptile's body systems work. Try to factor in varying restrictions that your reptile will encounter (environmental, metabolic, financial, availability, others.) Then, shoot for a happy medium to "hopefully" get your chameleon enough but not too much of what he or she needs.

Some other helpful definitions:
Hypocalcemia- (low serum calcium)

Caused by-

-nutritional deficiency- prey or food with an inadequate calcium level.
-impaired absorption- calcium absorption may be impaired by phylates (like soy ingredients), oxalates (like spinach), high fat pet foods, acidic foods.
-nutritional imbalance- inappropriate calcium to phosphorus ratio in the food eaten.
-renal compromise- kidneys are not working.
-inadequate lighting- lack of UVB to convert D3 to active form.

Clinical signs-

-muscle tremors, spontaneous bone fractures, inadequately calcified eggs.

Hypercalcemia- (high serum calcium)

Caused by-	-primary hyperparathyroidism- parathyroid tumor causing excess secretion of PTH. -oversupplementation- supplements. -nutritional imbalance- foods rich in calcium (rare). -bone resorption- bone infection or cancer.
Clinical signs-	-Maximal calcium tolerances are likely 3-5 times corresponding minimums. Higher intake may lead to conditioned deficiencies of trace minerals combined with high- fat diet, formation of calcium soaps in the digestive tract.

Hyperphosphatemia- (high serum phosphorus)

Caused by-	-renal disease -hypervitaminosis D -excessive dietary phosphorus
Clinical signs-	-calcification of the heart and kidney, bone resorption, and secondary nutritional hyperparathyroidism.

Hypervitaminosis D- (high serum calcitriol)

Caused by-	-excessive supplementation
Clinical signs-	-soft tissue calcification, depression, anorexia, polyuria/polydypsia (excessive drinking / urination), and weight loss.

Sources

I highly encourage everyone to do their own research. This is merely a summary of facts. Most of the sections above are paraphrased from available sources. I happily give credit where credit is due:

Dr. Donoghue- Chameleon News, On-line E-zine. May 2002.
Dr. Mader- Reptile Medicine and Surgery. 1996.
Drs. Feldman and Nelson- Canine and Feline Endocrinology and Reproduction, 3rd edition. 2004.
Drs. Duncan, Prasse, and Mahaffey- Veterinary Laboratory Medicine- Clinical Pathology, 3rd edition. 1994

North American Veterinary Conference Proceedings 2007

Speakers-

Dr. Mader
Dr. Mitchell- LSU
Dr. Fleming- Disneys Animal Programs
Dr. Pare- Toronto Zoo

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The original article and the thread can be found here:
1. The article
2. The thread
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Symptoms to watch for (hypocalcemia caused MBD):

Chameleon trembles excessively when climbing.
Chameleon often falls from the tree
Chameleon stays at the bottom of enclosure.
Bone fractures/ abnormal looking limbs (bowed legs).
Spinal deformity.
Rubbery jaws and bendable casque.
Chameleon is unable to lift its body with its legs.
Lethargic, loss of appetite, paralysis.

Comparison Pictures:

-"Straight Casque" photo courtesy of Justin Carl-

TREATMENT:
Unfortunately in the case of MBD, often chameleon's owners start to recognize symptoms when the disease is already at mild to advanced stages. Therefore, there is no other way except for a vet intervention. Most vet will administer a liquid calcium injection in hope to correct the lack of calcium balance. Meanwhile, I highly suggest you to correct your enclosure and feeding regiments. There are things that you can do, IN ADDITION, to hasten the recovery process (BESIDE administering the vet's prescribed medicine -PLEASE consult this treatment suggestion to your vet, before you actually start doing it):

Lots of sunlight basking. When the weather permits, expose your chameleon to sunlight. Let him bask as much as possible. Have half of the cage covered in the shadow in case he wants to escape from the scorching sunlight. 10 am to 2 pm is the best time.
Phoenix worm, provided that your chameleon loves them, is an excellent feeder with the best Calcium : Phosphor ratio. Feeding your chameleon this insects can definitely help. Don't forget to prick your worms before feeding time to ensure that your chameleon's stomach can digest them fully.
You might benefit from using a 10.0 reptiSUN TUBE, instead of 5.0, for your recovering chameleon. Remember to follow the appropriate distance rule listed by the company to avoid adding a complication to your chameleon (such as Conjunctivitis or UVB burn)!

Health Section A -Dehydration

2008-02-24T23:18:00.000-08:00

DEHYDRATION

Sunken eyes (Be aware, the chameleon in the case study is already in advanced stage of dehydration. When your chameleon exhibits the same symptom in the picture, you need a vet to treat and hydrate your chameleon).
A yellow or orange urate
Loss of appetite and chameleon appeared lethargic
When pulled GENTLY with 2 fingers, the skin is too slow to return back to its position (or, even worse, does not go back at all).

Comparison Pictures:

-"Healthy Eyes" photo courtesy of Karen Bainbridge-

UNHEALTHY URATE (ORANGE COLOR) AND POOP (TOO DRY OR TOO RUNNY)
-notes: a yellow urate is also unhealthy. Your chameleon can produce runny feces after being fed silkworms or hornworms. In that case, it is completely normal.
-photo courtesy of Dave Weldon-

HEATHY URATE (WHITE) AND POOP (MOIST AND DARK BROWN)
-photo courtesy of Dave Weldon-

TREATMENT:
If dehydration detected early, the treatment is quite simple. Misting more often and prolonging the time per session is recommended.
If your chameleon is old enough (5 months or older), a "shower" method can be used to effectively hydrate your chameleon. DO NOT SHOWER BABY CHAMELEONS. The water droplets can clog its nostril and cause it to drown.

How to shower your chameleon:

Put a fake plant (recommended) or a live one with lots of foliage into the tub
Adjust your showerhead so the water hits the wall and the REFLECTED DROPS hit the plant. You do not want the water to directly shoot your chameleon. If you can set the showerhead to different modes, set it so that the water droplets that comes out from the nozzle is small and fine instead of big and coarse.
Put your chameleon on the plant. A first timer chameleon usually freaks. But, overtime, he will learn to tolerate this session.
Let your chameleon shower for a good 30 to 45 minutes (especially for those that are dehydrated). DO NOT leave your chameleon unattended during this session.
Continue doing these therapy sessions daily or once every 2 days (depending on your chameleon condition) until he regain his hydration status.
Do realize that shower method can inflict some degree of stress to your chameleon. I do not shower my chameleon just for the sake of hydration. I only do this method when it is absolutely necessary and when the benefit outweigh the risk of inflicting discomfort to your chameleon.

New Arrival: Bringing home a new Chameleon

2008-01-25T12:25:00.000-08:00

Author: Ryan Jarosek, jparkreptiles.com
Article was posted on June 16, 2009 12:25 PM

Chameleons are susceptible to illnesses brought on by a host of bacteria, viruses, and other pathogens. Diseases spread most rapidly in unsanitary and crowded conditions and most easily affect weakened or stressed animals. Such conditions are almost inevitable in recently imported chameleons and all too common in many breeding operations. It is, therefore, important to protect animals already in your care from infection by any new arrivals as well to protect the new arrival itself. This article provides some “best practices” when bringing home a new chameleon. Newly acquired chameleons should be treated as if all are infected until proven otherwise. Even captive bred animals from the most respected sources can carry infections that were unknown to the breeder. A stressed animal is, almost by definition, immunologically compromised and organisms that had been benign can become problematic after the stress of shipping and adaptation to a new environment.

Planning for the new arrival:

Planning for the new arrival is a crucial step. Conduct research into the needs of the species you will be acquiring and have the setup ready and tested before the animal arrives.

Choose a location for the new arrival: A good location is key to a successful transition. The new arrival should be physically isolated from any other animals, preferably in a separate room. This will help to protect both new and old animals from cross contamination. Just as in any setup, the cage should be at a comfortable height and be placed in a low traffic location. Giving the chameleon a view from above and minimizing disturbance from both animals (including cats, dogs, etc.) and humans will help to reduce its stress.
Husbandry: Lighting, temperature and watering should be in place and appropriate to the species. Plants should be clean and repotted. You should feel comfortable that the environment is functional and sanitary. Err on the side of providing excessive hydration. New animals are often somewhat dehydrated.

Arrival

Handling the new Arrival: When handling the newly acquired chameleon it is important to wash your hands before and after handling any other animals. Ideally, one should wear latex or non latex examination gloves and change them between animals. Treat everything as if it is contaminated.
Basic Physical Examination: A visual examination of the animal should have been made before it was acquired but it is important to re-examine the animal to make sure nothing has happened in transit or that something was not missed by you or the supplier. An examination of the eyes, feet, skin, and the inside and corners of the mouth should be done. Doing this before the chameleon is placed in the enclosure prevents you from having to remove it again while it is becoming accustomed to its new home. Again, the goal here is to limit stress. Weigh the Chameleon. An accurate weight will be a good starting point to judge the progress and the health of the chameleon.
Introduction to the new home: After the examination it is now time to introduce the chameleon to its new home. Once the chameleon is in the enclosure it is best to “leave it alone.” Avoid holding or excessive viewing of the chameleon. It is best to limit activities to cleaning and watering. Observation and examination can be done at those times. I do not regularly handle new arrivals until they have had about 3 weeks to acclimate. Even then, handling should be infrequent, done only when necessary.

Diagnoses and Treatment

Vet visit: Make an appointment with a reptile vet as soon as possible after acquiring your chameleon. It is important to have the new chameleon examined by a professional and have tests done to determine if there is anything that needs to be treated. A fecal examination should be done. In the event something is found, a course of treatment will be prescribed by the vet and should be followed exactly as outlined. After treatment, a follow up appointment will be needed and another fecal examination performed to determine if further treatment is needed. It is not uncommon for an initial fecal exam to be negative and then be positive a week or two later. So plan on doing at least two such exams regardless of the outcome of the initial exam. A list of qualified reptile veterinarians in your area can be found at the web site of the Association of Reptile and Amphibian Veterinarians at www.arav.org
Screening for common parasites:

Fecal Examination – Fecal examinations are primarily performed to detect microscopic gastrointestinal parasites. Common parasites found in chameleons and most commonly in wild caught specimens include, Intestinal protozoans (e.g., Coccidia), nematodes (pinworms, roundworms, lungworms), and cestodes (tape worms). In order to perform a fecal examination, a fresh fecal sample needs to be collected. Pick up a sample after the chameleon has recently eliminated and store it in a sealed plastic baggie. Fresh samples will give the most information and help in an accurate diagnoses. A wise practice is to have fecal examinations performed on all animals, even assumedly healthy animals, every 6 months to 12 months.
Blood tests – Various hemoparasites reside in the blood stream may only be detectable by a blood test. Drawing blood in a chameleon is always highly stressful and this is especially true in the smaller species. Allow your veterinarian to decide on the appropriateness of doing blood work.
Visual inspection for subcutaneous (filarial) worms – These parasites are often visible under the skin. Your veterinarian can sometimes surgically remove them.

Preventing Re-infection and Cross Contamination:

Hand hygiene: Hand sanitation has been cited as the most important tool in reducing the transmission of infectious agents. Using anti-microbial soap with hot water or one of the alcohol based products is recommended. For more information and detailed guidelines visit http://www.cdc.gov/mmwr/preview/mmwrhtml/rr5116a1.htm
Cleaning: Know the difference between cleaning and disinfecting. In most cases, cleaning with soap and water is adequate for routine maintenance and day to day sanitation. Regular maintenance should include the removal of waste, wiping the bottom of the cage, and keeping the basking site clean.
Disinfecting: Disinfecting is needed when there is a significant likelihood of high concentrations of dangerous microorganisms and/or that an infection will be spread to others. Below are some of the common methods of disinfecting:

Submerging tools, vines, branches and other items in boiling water for 30 minutes to an hour will kill most organisms.
Rubbing alcohol will disinfect and sterilize equipment but some microbes may be unaffected. Rubbing alcohol is most often used to disinfect equipment like tweezers, forceps, and needles.
Bleach is stronger than alcohol. It is typically used by diluting ½-1 cup of household bleach in one gallon of water. It can be used to disinfect equipment such as tweezers, forceps, cages and needles by wiping down the object or by submerging in the solution of diluted bleach.
Miscellaneous chemicals have been developed for disinfecting and/or cleaning of reptile and bird cages. Many are effective but they should be used with caution. They are often corrosive and can cause damage to organic or inorganic materials.
Steam cleaning is a safe alternative to chemical disinfectants. Steam is produced under high pressure through a nozzle and effectively kills many organisms.

Your Supply Closet: Items to have on hand

Latex or non-latex examination gloves) – Gloves provide protection for you and you chameleon when cleaning or performing examinations. This is key in preventing cross-contamination
Hydrogen peroxide (7%-12%) is a disinfectant used to clean and disinfect equipment, cages, and other surfaces. Anything under 7% is not effective in killing Coccidia
Bleach is an excellent disinfectant for equipment, cages, and other surfaces.
Steam cleaner. This is a high pressure steamer that is a good alternative to chemicals that can damage organic material.
Disposable towels are invaluable for wiping up messes for use as a disposal liner for cage bottoms.

Your Medicine Cabinet: items to have on hand

Supplements. Phosphorus free Calcium Powder without Vitamin D3, Calcium Powder with vitamin D3, reptile multi vitamin.
Syringes of different sizes. These are useful for the administration of medications, supplements, like calcium, for hand feeding, and for cleaning and sterilization, especially of tubing. (Syringes should not be used to administer oral supplements, medications or foods except to sick animals under the direction of a veterinarian.)
Cotton Balls and Q-tips are useful for cleaning and for the application of creams and topical medications.
Properly diluted Chlorhexidine Gluconate product. This is an ideal substance for the topical treatment for many common problems such as foot and temporal gland infections.
Iodine can be an effective topical antiseptic agent although most veterinarians will recommend Chlorhexidine Gluconate.
Liquid calcium is a supplement that can assist in recovery from and prevention of metabolic bone disease (MBD). It should be administered only under the direction of a veterinarian.
K-Y jelly is a lubricant that is commonly used in the treatment of rectal and hemipenal prolapses to prevent drying out of the affected organ.
Tweezers are ideal for handling and extracting small objects.

References:
Klingenberg, R. J. (1993) Understanding Reptile Parasites. 2nd Ed. , Advanced Vivarium Systems, Lakeside , CA .
Mader, D. R. (1996) Reptile Medicine and Surgery 2nd Ed. W.B. Saunders, Philadelphia , PA.
Davidson, L. (1997). Chameleons Their Care and Breeding. Hancock House, Blaine , WA .
Center for Disease Control. Infection Control in Dental Settings http://www.cdc.gov/oralhealth/infectioncontrol/glossary.htm
Center for Disease Control. Guideline for Hand Hygiene in Health-Care Settings. http://www.cdc.gov/mmwr/preview/mmwrhtml/rr5116a1.htm

Handling Your Chameleon?

2008-01-24T23:19:00.000-08:00

Handling

This is by far the most often subject that people ask. "Is it okay to handle my chameleon?"
I am somewhat hesitant to give the green light. Yet, at the same time, I do not share the extreme idea that handling chameleon is absolutely forbidden. I will leave that decision entirely up to you. However, I will share you some of the facts that I deem to be true.

First of all, I firmly believe that we should NOT try to characterize animals with human feelings, let alone a chameleon. I often hear people say “My chameleon is very tame. He/she crawls up my hand whenever I open the cage.” Another one is “My chameleon lets me rub his/her chin”, or “my chameleon often rubs his/her nose and love bite my hand.” The danger with that statement comes from attributing human affections into our pet. By humanizing our chameleon, we can falsely convince ourselves into thinking that chameleons enjoy such activities. Although I cannot be sure what is going on inside of their tiny head, since I am not a chameleon, I will have to force myself not to overly view things from my perspective.

Take a dog, as an example. When they see their owner, dogs usually lie down and display their tummy. We often associate that as an affection gesture and, immediately, think that our dog is asking for a tummy rub. In the wild, wolf packs have been known to also display this behavior toward their Alpha male. The idea of the packs asking for a tummy rub from the alpha male seems to sound ridiculous now, isn’t it? We have learned that such behavior is a sign of respect. By exposing their soft belly, the pack signals a white flag to the alpha male. Thus, it is safe to say that your domestic dog is displaying respect and acknowledging you as his/her Alpha leader.

Just like it is a ridiculous idea of assuming a pack of wolves wanting their tummies to be rub, it is also not wise to think that your chameleon is displaying affections toward you during those above cases. Therefore, we have to keep an open mind and allowing another possible and plausible ideas. Perhaps, your chameleon hates to be in the cage and saw an opportunity to escape when he quickly climb toward your hand.

With that in mind, I would urge you to question the statement “My chameleon enjoys my presence” and perhaps start substituting the word “enjoys” with “tolerates.”

I firmly believe that chameleons never enjoy being held. It is believed that excessive handling can shorten your chameleon's lifespan. They view everything that moves and bigger than them as predators. Therefore, knows the fear that you inflict when you handle your chameleon. They view you as a giant that is about to eat them. Their response is usually to run, and when they are cornered, there is no other way but fight. Understanding this rule has won you half of the battle to avoid getting bitten by your chameleon.

Training chameleon not to bite is the number one reason why people think it is necessary to handle their chameleon. Unfortunately, chameleons are not dogs. They are wild animals. Thus, handling them, in my opinion, is a bit futile. Constant exposure from feeding, outside basking, misting, and cage cleaning should be enough to make your chameleon tolerates you and associate you as positive events.
Although I do not recommend you handle your chameleon, if you keep insisting on it, I do have a suggestion on how to do it to reduce your chameleon stress during this regimen.

Once your chameleon arrives, give him a chance to get used to his cage about a week or two. Usually, a baby chameleon will pace inside his cage. They become restless and often hang upside down trying to escape. This is a normal behavior. They are stressed out and a bit afraid of the new environment. They will pace and surveyed around while displaying stress mark to see if there is another chameleon or predators around.
After they get used to the surroundings, you can begin the handling regimen. Please keep this as minimal as possible. I would limit the handling to 5 minutes once a week. Gently take them out and sit calmly to let them venture around your body and climb your head.
If you are a bit afraid of the possibility of getting bitten, you can wear thick gloves (or oven mitten) for protection. Since many have reported that their chameleons reacted strongly to bright colors, I would advise you to get dark brown or black gloves. Avoid bright yellows and reds.
Know that sometimes they will see you as threat and might start to fight back and try to bite you. Whatever you do, avoid sudden movement or jerking your hand and smacking your chameleon off the ground. They can get seriously injured. Also be aware that nervous chameleons do jump. Be prepared to quickly catch them with your open palm to avoid them smacked on to the floor.

With that note and the disadvantages of handling regimen, I will leave the decision entirely up to you.

Veiled and Panther Chameleon Care 101 Check List

2008-01-24T23:18:00.002-08:00

Judging how people usually wants easy and quick readings, I bet some of you just click this page right away ignoring the 101 series that precede this, aren't you?

Do not cheat. I promised you. By diligently reading them all, you will save a lot of heartache from making common mistakes in chameleon's care :)
There are TONS (and I do mean tons) of things that are essential for your chameleon well being that I do not cover in this check list..

So, come now.. click the 101 A. and come back to this page later AFTER you read all of the 101 series.

For those of you who have done the home works, congrats! and read onward!
So, here is the Chamworld Blogspot Shopping Check List for the bare necessity:

Enclosures and Furnitures:

2 Aluminum Screen cages (18X18X36) and (24X24X48). Females can stay in 18X18X36 permanently.
2 live plants with appropriate size to fit in the screen cage (Hibiscus Rosa Sinensis is recommended)
2 or more fake jungle vines (i/e: exoterra jungle vines)

Lighting and temp:

1 24" Light fixture
1 24" ReptiSUN 5.0 Linear
1 Lamp clamp
1 Incandescent bulb (experiment with wattage to achieve desired temperature)
2 Digital probe thermometers with hygrometer built in
2 Digital Timers (Recommended to automate Misting system and lights)

Watering:

1 hand pumped spray or 1 misting system (Mistking is recommended)
1 Zoomed dripper
1 bucket or plastic tote for drainage if required

Supplement:

1 Reptivite without D3
1 Herptivite
1 MinerAll 0
1 Repcal with D3

Food item:

1 cricket keeper or plastic tote bin to put your crickets in
100 crickets appropriate size to last him/ her about 7 - 10 days before you buy another feeder
1 bag of dry gutload for your crickets to eat
1 water quencher for your crickets to drink (such as orange cube fluker farm/ water crystal)

---------------NOW STOP------------------
Go home and relax... Set up your enclosure and everything else. Test run it as if the chameleon is already there. Run the misting schedule.. and see if you have problem with drainage.
See if your temperature fluctuates too high or too low..
See if your humidity is too high/ too low..
Depending on the result of the test run, there will be things you need to buy and change (such as: buying more plants, changing the wattage, drill more holes on the PVC board, etc etc).

Adjust... Adjust.. Adjust... until you achieve the optimal micro habitat for your future chameleon.

--------------IS IT PERFECT NOW?-------
If the answer is yes, then go ahead! go to the expo, call your preferred breeder, and finally..
Get your chameleon.. It will be so happy coming home to its kingdom, courtesy of its owner (you!)

Veiled and Panther Chameleon Care 101E (FEMALE CARE)

2008-01-24T23:17:00.000-08:00

Article is Coming Soon! In the meantime, here is a video of Female Carpet Chameleon digging a nest site. Essentially, this is the biggest difference of female care compared with male. So, stay tune! (This statement is made on Thu, June 18, 2009 11:39 PM PST)

VIDEO COURTESY OF KENT

Veiled and Panther Chameleon Care 101D (FEEDING)

2008-01-24T13:37:00.001-08:00

Feeding

It is important to familiarize yourself with nutritional contents of the feeders you are feeding to your chameleon. Just as you would not feed your children junk food as their main diets, you should also be aware which insects are healthy and which are considered to be snacks.

Chameleon in the wild will eat many different species of insects to complete their nutrition need. Although it is almost impossible to exactly simulate that in captivity, you should varies his diet as much as possible. Try to have at least 3 different feeders on hand. Chameleon can pull a long period of hunger strikes when he is subjected to the same diet over and over.

Feeders:

I usually have 4 or more different feeders ready for my chameleon. I rotate the feeder type to avoid getting him bored.

These are insects that I consider as good feeders:

Phoenix worm
Silkworm
Hornworm (Common in US/ Illegal in Europe)
Butter worm
Cricket or Grasshoppers (Common in Europe but illegal in US -so, whichever available for you to buy)
Blaptica Dubia
Super worm

Insects #1-4 are very nutritious and can be fed without dusting
Insects #5-7 need to be dusted to balance the Ca: P ratio.

These are treat only feeders. Some insects become treat only basis due to their inefficient gutloading method (i.e: Mantis). Some due to their poor quality of nutrition (i.e: Waxworm and mealworm). And, others because of their rare availability in store (because their slow nature in reproduction or simply because of restrictions by law).
I could just eliminate insects that cannot be attainable here, but I realized there are people outside of US reading this blog. So, I decided to put them into consideration since some of the illegal insects in US are actually legal in Europe. Anyway, I compile everything into this one list:

Wax worm
Mealworm
Black Soldier Flies/ House flies/ Blue Bottle Flies/ Fruitflies and Spring tails (for neonates)
Silk moths or hornworm moths
Butterflies: Make sure you check the toxicity of the butterflies. Painted Lady and Cabbage White Butterflies are generally safe. Monarch butterflies, on the other hand, are Toxic.
Rolly pollies (pill bugs/ sow bugs/ wood lice): Extremely high in calcium and chitin.
Praying Mantis
Snails (Illegal to breed/ purchase in couple of states -Consult your local law)
Earthworms (Anecdotal/ feed on your own risk)
Indian Walking Sticks (Available in Europe/Illegal in US): According to testimonies from fellow European chameleon keepers, their chameleon go nut for this insects. They are also very easy to gutload. Unfortunately, they are not available for US chameleon keepers.

There are many good insects suppliers in the US. All of the insects that I mentioned above are commercially available (#8 and #10 is available limited in certain state. You also have to have permit to own them).

I advise you not to use wild caught insects unless you are absolutely sure that they have not been subjected to Pesticides or Insecticides, parasites (i.e: snails), and metal poisoning (Rolly Pollies).
Wild caught specimens that can be used are:

Locust/ Grasshoppers/ Katydids
Moths (research about their toxicity)
Certain Pantry Pests (research first before feeding them to your chameleons)
Dragon Flies

Insects to AVOID due to POISON:

Ladybugs
Fireflies
Scorpion
Spiders (i.e: Black widows, Brown Recluse, etc)
Centipedes
and other poisonous insects - ALWAYS MAKE SURE THAT INSECTS YOU FED TO YOUR CHAMELEONS ARE SAFE AND NON POISONOUS

Quantity:

Babies (0-4 months): 8-12 small crickets (1/8 - 1/4"). You can also feed them flightless fruit flies. The rule of thumb is never feed your chameleon insects that are bigger than the width of his forehead. Some exception applies to soft-bodied feeders such as silkworms and hornworms.

Juveniles (5-12 months): 5-6 medium crickets (1/2 - 3/4") daily. Over feeding your chameleon can put your chameleon in risk of developing MBD. Here is a quote taken from Kammerflage caresheet: "The very real risk of overfeeding during this life stage is a high potential for MBD (metabolic bone disease) by misjudging the calcium ratios to food intake. It's too difficult to manage proper supplementation when offering large volumes of food. By growing your chameleon slowly and steadily through this period of their life, you are much more likely to provide them with strong, dense bones as opposed to weak, brittle bones from accelerated growth rates the chameleons can't keep up with."

Adult Males (a year and older): 10 adult crickets per feeding every other day.

Quality:
Supplementing is very IMPORTANT to keep a healthy chameleon.
Wild chameleons eat a lot of variety of insect based on their nutrition need. Unfortunately, chameleons in captivity do not have that luxury. Thus, a proper supplementation and gut loading are REQUIRED to enhance the nutrition of your feeder. It is also important to notice that Gutloading SHOULD be the main method of delivering nutrition, vitamins, and minerals to your chameleon. And, supplement should act according to what it suppose to act (as a supplementary source/ as addition of the gutloading regiment).

Supplementation:
There is no exact formula that ensures the health of your chameleon. Each chameleon is unique and you should approach with extra attention to what your chameleon needs individually. There is no STRICT guideline on how much and how often a supplementation is needed.
However, a general rule of thumb is babies and juveniles need more of it than an adult, since they are still growing.

Supplementation is achieved by LIGHTLY dusting your feeders.
I do mean LIGHTLY. Do not smother and choke your crickets with supplementations.
Overdosing your chameleon with supplementation can also be fatal.

M ------- Multivitamin with Beta Carotene (I use Herptivite)
T---------- Calcium with D3 (I use Repcal with D3)
WThFSat------- Calcium without D3 (I use Miner-All 0)
Sun--------- No dusting required

Another supplement that your chameleon need is a preformed vitamin A (Retinol). Currently, there are not enough studies that delve with this subject matter. One argument brought up is that, unlike other animals, chameleons seemingly unable to convert beta-carotene into Vitamin A (See Dr. Gary Ferguson's interview in July Folder). In the wild, chameleons get their share of retinol by eating some tiny vertebrates (lizards and small baby rodents).

This is where it gets blurry. Some people recommend using them and some do not.
I do, however, supply my chameleon with this pre-formed vitamin A once a month. Vitamin A, just like D3, is a fat-soluble type meaning that your chameleon will not be able to dump the excess. Thus, there is a risk of over supplementing your chameleon. Always remember to use precaution when you do this supplementation regime. The less the better!

There are two ways for supplementing your chameleon with retinol:

Via feeders if your chameleon happened to like them (small pinky mice and anoles)->Be careful not to overfeed your chameleon with pinkies. Although they contain retinol, they also contain high protein that can prove to be detrimental to your chameleon's overall health.
Via supplementation (such as fish liver oil or preformed Vitamin A soft gel for human). Puncture the gel capsule with clean needle and take A VERY TINY MINUSCULE drop and brush it on your insects once a month. Remember, human vitamin A gel has an excessive dosage of 8000 IU per capsule. The RECOMMENDED dosage according to Professor Larry Talent at Oklahoma State University is 50 IU of retinol in corn oil/week. As of today (June, 2009), I no longer use this method of delivering Retinol, due to the difficulty in dosaging the right amount. I have opted to use Reptivite without D3 (a vitamin supplement that use Pre-Formed Vit A instead of Beta Carotene. I used this once a month).

Specifically for veiled chameleon, due to its ability in dumping excess mineral and salt via its nostril (similar to a marine iguana), it becomes somewhat easier to find out whether you are over supplementing your chameleon or not. Although not always accurate, white powdery substances on your veiled chameleon's nose is usually a sign for you to ease up on your supplementation regime or amount. If you see the sign, stop the supplementation for couple of days (2 - 3 days). Once the salt crust gone, resume the schedule with less amount of dusting.

Gut Loading:
Different feeders require a different method of gut loading.
Silk worms and Hornworms ate a specific food in order to survive. Their chow are available commercially.
There is no need to add another type of gut load for these feeders. They are nutritious enough for your chameleon.

For crickets and roaches, I used dry gut load specifically made by a fellow avid chameleon keeper. Long time ago, I used gutload made by cricketfood.com; unfortunately, as of today, they are no longer in business. Hydration can be provided by water crystal or Fluker Orange cubes . In addition, I also give them fresh fruits and vegetables, such as apples, oranges, dandelion, kale, and collard greens. Avoid using lettuces (as they generally are not that nutritious), broccoli, spinach, potato, tomato, and other types of foods that contain high oxalate contents.

I would also avoid using high protein food as gut load for roaches. Many will suggest you to feed your roaches with cat food, dog food, and fish flakes. Those types of gut loads are fine, if you want to keep ROACHES as pets. But, it is NOT acceptable for Chameleon. A high protein gut load can give your chameleon gout.

You can feed your roaches dog food to stimulate them into breeding mode. But, separate the one you are going to feed to your chameleon. And, gutload them with cricket gutload and veggies I mentioned above for ABOUT 3 TO 5 DAYS before feeding them to your chameleon. This will ensure the roaches to no longer have traces of dogfood in their system.

Method:

Free roam method: dump the crickets inside the enclosure and let your chameleon hunts. Do not let feeders overnight. The bugs will bother your chameleon at night by biting him. The benefit of free roam is the way it mimics the nature. Your chameleon will get a good exercise from hunting his food. Unfortunately, free roam makes it hard for you to monitor the exact amount of food that your chameleon eat daily, some insects might not get eaten and manage to survive and possibly escape.
Feeder Cup method: use a semi opaque or opaque cup inside the cage. Put your feeder inside of the cup. The benefits of cup feeding are the ability for you to accurately monitor your chameleon's daily intake, minimize insect escapees, and keeps a cleaner cage since the dead feeder will be in the cup. The negative thing about cup feeding are not all chameleons get accustomed to eat from a cup and chameleon tends to become lazy since no hunting required to get his food.
Combination method: This is the best way in my opinion. Put half of the insects free roam and another in a cup.

Sanitary:
Do exercise cleanliness while keeping feeders, especially crickets. If you let the container, where you kept the feeders, gets dirty and moldy, guess what! Those nasty things will also get into your chameleon’s tummy and making him sick. Also, ironically, cricket cannot stand their own nasty smell. You will start to see massive death when you let the cricket container gets too dirty and too smelly.

Do not let dead feeders in your chameleon cage. Pick it up and throw it away at sight.

A chapter will be dedicated for specific feeders and their care in the future.
Source(s): Kammerflage Kreations and chameleonforums.com

Veiled and Panther Chameleon Care 101C (MISTING)

2008-01-24T01:01:00.001-08:00

Misting and Watering

One of the most common health problems chameleon faces in captivity is DEHYDRATION. It is very important to provide your chameleon with a proper watering method. Chameleons do NOT recognize stagnant puddle of water as water source. In the wild, they drink by licking morning dews on the leaves, soaking under rainfalls, and eating leaves during drought seasons (specifically veiled chameleon). With that being said, a water bowl and a waterfall system are a complete waste of time. Even worse, for some reason, chameleon often treats standing water as their personal lavatories. They will defecate on your waterfall making it a breeding ground for bacteria and all sort of nasty stuffs. Thus, we should simulate the natural drinking habit of chameleon in the wild by misting the enclosure.

Misting also temporarily raise the enclosure’s humidity. I suggest misting should be done at least twice a day with 5 minutes or more per session. It took generally about that much time to induce chameleon’s drinking response. Be aware, that some chameleons are shyer than others. They might not drink or eat at all in front of you.

I mist 4 times a day (Do you remember what I have said about chameleons will take a chunk of your time?). The reason I do it that much is because the environment where I live is very dry (during winter, the humidity here can drop to 5%).

Here is my misting schedule:

First session is at 7 am (an hour after the lights on). The reason I wait for an hour is to let my chameleon bask first to raise his body temperature. Water droplets can drop his temperature in an instant. Not letting your chameleon to have time to bask before the morning misting session, probably, is equivalent to an experience where someone throws you a bucket of cold water to wake you up. It is not a very nice experience, is it?

Second session is at 10 am (by then all the enclosure should already be dried)

Third session is at 1 pm.

The last is at 5 pm (Strangely, this is the time that my chameleon has chosen to drink or, at least, choose to drink in front of me).

I got to be honest with you. I do use an auto misting system that does the job for me.
It is very simple to set up and the benefits definitely outweigh the price.
But, if you have time and you do not want to spend extra money on misting system, a simple hand pump mister is sufficient. Filled the bottle with hot water (NOT BOILING) so when the water comes out of the nozzles, it will be warm for your chameleon.

Also, in addition to misting, you should purchase a little dripper system by Zoomed. A plastic bottle pricked by a needle pin can also be used if you want to save money.
The water should drip about every second or two. Put the dripper on top of the screen cage and let the water drops on your plant’s leaves. You can use a simple tray to catch the water. Elevate your plants so the bottom does not touch the water to prevent rotting roots. Remove water from tray daily. One of these days, you might want to invest your money or your time to build a drainage system.

My drainage system is simple. I drill holes in the middle of the PVC cage floor. I put the cage on a metal rack. And, on the bottom of the rack shelve, I have a bucket that catch the water drips.
The weight of the plant pot cause the PVC floor to curve in the middle, naturally, making the water to fall down into the holes.

Even with all that watering, the humidity of my room can still drop to a dangerous level for my chameleon. Occasionally, I will use an ultrasonic humidifier to boost the humidity a notch. I do NOT put the humidifier inside the enclosure. The foggy mist often freaks out my chameleon.

With all the fuss of watering and misting, it is CRUCIAL for you to know whether you need an extra misting depending where you live.
In order for you to do that, you will need a Hygrometer inside your enclosure.
There are some cheap digital thermometers out there that come equipped with a hygrometer as well. Go get one!

Veiled and Panther Chameleons’ cage should be in the range of 40% to 70% humidity.
Panther can benefit from having a SLIGHTLY more humid enclosure. It is okay for your cage humidity to fluctuate. Just be sure that it never drops below 40% or rise any higher than 80%. The real problem from having not enough humidity or too much humidity is the risk of your chameleon getting a Respiratory Infection (RI).

Another questions that often pops in mind is “How do I know for sure my chameleon is drinking if he never drink in front of me?”
While it is true that chameleons are generally shy, some do not and will drink in front of their owner. But, there is another way to know whether your chameleon is drinking or not. The obvious one is to check its droppings.
Chameleon’s dropping contains 2 parts: the actual feces and the urate.
A hydrated chameleon should have a moist (not runny) dark brown feces and white urate. A yellow or orange urate is a sign that your chameleon is not drinking enough water. In that case, a vet visit is in order.
_______________________Lesson continued to 101D
source(s): Kammerflage Kreations and chameleonforums.com

Veiled and Panther Chameleon Care 101B (PLANTS)

2008-01-22T15:51:00.000-08:00

Plants

I now only use real live plants in my chameleon's enclosure. Real plants are by far the superior 'furnitures' for your chameleon. They are tremendous assets in keeping your enclosure humid and, best of all, for chameleons such as Veiled and panther (more so for Veiled), real plants can also be their SMALL part of diet. Veiled Chameleons adapt in the wild by nibbling on leaves to regain moisture during the dry seasons.

Chameleons love to hide from predators. Therefore, it is beneficial for you to have thick bushy plants (tall and healthy) for him to escape into. But, do not forget to also provide him with an empty space to stretch and relax. A cage with no room to move is just as bad as a bare cage. See the picture of my enclosure (in 101A) to get a better idea.

Since your chameleons might munch on the leaves, it is imperative to have plants that are safe to eat. Here are some of the plants that chameleon keepers often use in their enclosure:

1. Hibiscus Rosa Sinensis.
This is a very common beautiful plant available in almost all nurseries in the states. The leaves and the flowers are completely safe to eat (and if your chameleon do eat them, the flowers contain a nice boost of vitamin C) and the branches are strong enough to be climbed around by chameleons. I absolutely adore this plant. Unfortunately, Hibiscus can be quite tough to care. Their constant need of sunlight can be a problem if you put them in an indoor cage. Some people buy more than one Hibiscus. They put one in the cage and the other outside and rotate them every once in a while. I used Hibiscus almost exclusively at one time. Even now, ALL of my hibiscus thrive wonderfully inside my chameleon's cage. I do use a plant light (GE Plant & Aquarium T12 ) to promote my Hibiscus' growth. You can find it at your local stores, such as Lowes, Walmart, or Target.

Here is a nice video demonstrating a female veiled eating a hibiscus flower.
VIDEO COURTESY OF JANN B

2. Ficus Benjamina.
I have a love hate relationship with this particular plants. Ficus Benjamina, or the weeping fig, are very hardy plants. They can take a lot of abuse and will thrive very well indoors. However, Ficus Benjamina is mildly toxic. When broken, the branch will produce a milky sap that can irritate your chameleon’s eyes and skin. It is also advised to take the ficus out of the enclosure if your chameleon starts to munch the leaves excessively.

3. Schefflera Arboricola.
It is commonly known as the Dwarf Umbrella tree. This plant is also very easy to keep indoors. It has mild toxic and action should be taken when your chameleon start munching the plant too much.

4. Epipremnum aureum
It is commonly known as Golden Pothos or Devil’s Ivy. This plant, in my opinion, should be used in addition to your main plants. Its vines are not as rigid and tough like the plants I mentioned above. Golden Pothos has a high oxalate content that can block your chameleon’s calcium absorption. So, be cautious when your chameleon munches the leaves in great amount.
Be aware also that Golden Pothos has a poisonous cousin called a heart-leafed Philodendron. Make sure that you do not buy the wrong one.

There are many other safe plants out there that you can use in your enclosure. Have fun creating a jungle for your chameleons! Just make sure that you research well. Make sure that you do not put poisonous plants inside the enclosure. There are many good websites that you can check to find out whether the plants you have are safe or poisonous.

PREPPING YOUR PLANTS:
Since many of the nurseries use heavy load of pesticides and fertilizers for their plants, it is crucial for you to prep your plants before introducing them into the chameleon’s cage.
Fertilizers and pesticides are highly TOXIC and can be extremely fatal to your chameleon.
I suggest to do it anyway, even when the nursery claim they are not using chemical pesticides and fertilizers. Again, it is better to be on the safe side.

Here is a way that Kammers recommend me to do to prep the plants:

A. Removing Pesticides Trace:

On a large tub, make a soapy solution by mixing a squirt of antibacterial soap with water. Mix them well.
Turn your plant upside down and dunk it into the soapy water and swish it around.
Let your plant sit for 5 minutes.
Rinse your plant well to remove all traces of soaps
Do step 1-4 about 3 or more times

B. Removing Fertilizer Trace:
Many of the potting soils that originally used by the nursery will have additives and fertilizer balls. Therefore, you need to repot the plant with organic potting soil that does not have chemical fertilizer or additives.
Some people use “Organic” Potting soil. I used “Supersoil” potting soil (without conditioners).
Because I want to make sure that there is no way for my chameleon to accidentally ingest the fertilizers, I completely repot the plant with the new soil.

Some chameleons are notoriously known to eat dirt. If you happen to get one that does (like me), it is even more IMPERATIVE that you do this preparation.
Currently, it is unknown why exactly some chameleons do this. Some people speculate that eating soil is the chameleons’ way to get rid of parasites. Some says it is a way for chameleons to obtain minerals for their bodies. Some simply says it is just a bad habit that your chameleon develops.

I am a bit ambivalent about this issue. But, I am leaning toward NOT letting your chameleon do that to avoid a possible case of impaction. A good way to prevent your chameleon from eating dirt is to cover the soil by plastic canvas (you can purchase it cheap at Wal-Mart’s art and crafts section) or by large polished rocks. If you decide to do the latter method, make sure that the rocks are too big for your chameleon to swallow and rinse the rock well with hot water before using them.

Some people allow their chameleon to eat the soil. If you decided to do so, make sure you sift the soil. Make sure there are no small pebbles, wood chips, or any objects that can be swallowed by your chameleon.

_______________________Lesson continued to 101C
Source(s): Kammerflage Kreations and chameleonforums.com

Veiled and Panther Chameleon Care 101A (ENCLOSURE & LIGHTING)

2008-01-21T21:01:00.001-08:00

Introduction:
So, you finally ready to purchase a chameleon. Knowing the risk of sounding like a broken record, I advise you again to prepare the enclosure and buy ALL the necessary equipments BEFORE purchasing the chameleon.

This basic care is SPECIFICALLY geared toward 2.5 months old or older MALE Veiled and Panther Chameleons. A special care (discussed in 101E chapter) is needed for young babies and females.

Enclosure:
I use an aluminum screen enclosures with plastic PVC bottoms. They are cheap, light weight, and very easy to clean. Glass enclosure is generally not a good choice. Air circulation in a glass cage is very poor. Since they are ARBOREAL creatures and live mostly their whole lives on the trees in the nature, the need for good air circulation in captivity is imperative.

Glass is reflective. Your chameleon can mistakenly think his own reflection as another chameleon in vicinity. since chameleon is territorial, this can cause him great stress.
Another disadvantages is the fact that most chameleon is unable to recognize glass as barrier. You will often see them trying to walk through it. And, this overtime will add stress.

However, it does not mean that glass enclosure cannot be used to house a chameleon. In fact, people in Europe have been successfully using glass enclosures.
But, do be aware that Europe's dry and cold climate is quite different than America's. So, in certain areas over there, a glass enclosure actually benefit them more in retaining heat and humidity.
Realize that most of the keepers there modify their enclosure to have at least 2 sides of ventilation strips/ holes to tackle the problem with air circulation.

Reptarium can also be used. I do, however, steer away from using it. Be aware that visibility of Reptarium is quite poor, the zipper is annoying, Crickets can escape by chewing the screen, and the plastics screen also blocks 50% of the UVB light. So, minor adjustments are needed for a chameleon to thrive in Reptariums.

Here are the recommended sizes:
2.5 - 6 months old Baby: 18"L x 18"W x 36"H or equivalent volume (Female panther and veiled can stay in 18 18 36 cage permanently).
6 months male and older: 24"L x 24"W x 48"H or larger

Babies need to be kept in smaller enclosures so they can find their food easily without getting lost. Rest easy that buying 2 cages for one chameleon is not a waste of money. You can always use the smaller one as a sunning cage for your chameleon later on.

No substrate is necessary to avoid a possible impaction, cricket escaping by burrowing into the substrate, and growth of bacteria and mold.
A bare PVC floor is the best and the most sanitary. Paper towel can be used, provided that you routinely change them.

The whole cage should be cleaned on regular basis (once a week). Chameleon's waste and dead feeders should be removed immediately to maintain cleanliness.

Put the cage in a low traffic room to reduce your chameleon's stress.
You might also want to put the cage as high as possible. Have at least the top part of the cage to be higher than your eye level. Chameleon loves to perch on the highest spot. It gives them a sense of security.

Lighting
Your chameleon needs 3 components. Heat, UVB, and UVA to thrive in captivity.
UVB promotes healthy growth and strong bone density by allowing your chameleon to produce vit D3, while UVA enhance its appetite, sex drive, and their immune system.
Heat will keep them warm and their metabolism active.

If you keep your chameleon indoor, 2 kinds of lighting are needed:

UVB = a 5.0 Zoomed ReptiSUN TUBE. (+ UV Fluorescent Light Fixture)
DO NOT buy reptiGLO or COMPACT bulb. A 5.0 ReptiGlo does not provide as much UVB as reptiSUN. If for some reason, you can only get 5.0 ReptiGlo linear, be aware that you need to change them more often than ReptiSun. Some people use a 10.0 ReptiSUN in their enclosure. But, I have never used them and have never felt the need to spend extra dollars for this type of lighting. The 5.0 one does great job already. Also REMEMBER to change the tube once every 6 months. UVB lamp looses its effectiveness after that period of time.
Compact bulb has been proven to cause photo kerato conjunctivitis to your chameleon.
Follow this link for further study of lightings for your reptiles' need.
Reptisun emits UVA as well.
UVA and Heat = I use a 50-watt Zoomed Repti Basking spot lamp. (+Clamp Lamp Fixture)
You can use a regular incandescent house bulb as a substitute.
I live in a place with warm climate so 50 or 60-watt seems to do the trick for me. Some of you who live in colder climate might benefit from having a 75 watt-bulb.

Put the UVB lamp on the screen top of the cage. A 5.0 UVB seems safe enough. But, if you opt to use a 10.0, I would raise the lamp 6 inches from the top of the cage to avoid burning your chameleon.
Put your heat lamp on the screen top corner of the cage allowing some areas inside the cage to be cooler for your chameleon to escape to when he overheats. Chameleon is a smart animal. They will regulate their body temp by moving closer or away from the basking spot and moving up or down the enclosure.

In general, chameleons love a well lit environment during the day. So, try to imitate it as best as you can. Some people add another light (such as a normal house fluorescent tube to brighten the cage even more. ReptiSun and incandescent bulb are actually quite dim).
Do notice that the 3rd light tube is just a normal household fluorescent bulb that does not emit UVB nor significant heat. Its function is only to add brightness to the cage period. Although the benefit of having a 3rd light (as to brighten the cage) on their mood is quite apparent, is this type of additional lighting necessary? Not really, I have raised healthy chameleons using only those two primary lights. But, a 3rd light is quite nice and beneficial to have.

Provide a horizontal branch under the basking spot (no closer than 6" to avoid burning) for your chameleon to perch and relax while basking.

NEVER EVER PUT your lamps INSIDE of the cage.
Doing this might put your chameleon in risk of burning itself by staying too close to the light bulbs. With that being said, you will also need:

2 digital/analog thermometers.

If you want to get the digital one, I suggest getting the one that is equipped with hygrometer (this will be explained in the humidity chapter).
Put one nearby the basking spot and the other one as far as possible from the spot.
With those equipments you will have 2 readings: the highest and lowest temp in the cage.

The basking spot temp should be around 82F - 85F for babies and 90F - 95F for adults (some can tolerate 100 F. But, I found that my chameleons usually start to gape when the temp past 95 F).
The enclosure temp should be around 70F - 80F.

Put the lights on a lamp timer. Turn the lights on for 12 hours and off for the rest of the day.
Chameleon needs to go to sleep during the night. Therefore, the room should be dark after their 12 hours lights on session. I put mine on at 6 am to 6 pm. Chameleons are diurnal. They are active during the day; So, it is best not to bother your chameleon by turning on any kind of lights in the room after his 'day' hours.

There is absolutely NO NEED for Infra red heat lamp or any other types of heating such as ceramic heater during nighttime. Veiled and Panther benefit from having a 10 degree drop during nighttime. You will not need any night heat source unless the cage temp drops below 60F.

The best lighting that you can provide for your chameleon is the real SUN.
If you live in the area where sun is available all year around, I recommend you to take him outside and allow him to bask to his heart content. The best time to take him outside is 10 am to 2 pm. Positioned half of the cage to be in the shadow, so he can escape from the sun if he overheats.
I do not recommend letting him free roam without supervision during sunning. Chameleon is an avid climber. It can escape pretty quickly. Also, wild birds (raven or crow) might decide to make your chameleon their lunch.

Chameleons with access to sunlight are proven to be much healthier than the one that do not. If you feel that it is a hassle to take the cage outside, you can always put the cage nearby a window. Please be aware that UVB ray cannot pass through glass or plastic. Thus, you need to open the window to make sure that your chameleon gets all the UVs he need.
But, be aware of temperature shift, if you do so.. The gravest mistake is underestimating the sun's ability to quickly warm things up and having your chameleon to be overheated from being bombarded by the heat from the sun and the heat from the basking bulb. Consider these elements and switch off the heat bulb or take him away from the sun if the weather temp seems to be too hot for him.

References:
www.chameleonsonly.com
www.chameleonforums.com

_______________________Lesson continued to 101B
Source(s): Kammerflage Kreations and chameleonforums.com

Buying Your First Chameleon

2008-01-21T15:26:00.000-08:00

General Information:

1. What chameleon to buy?
I always recommend beginners to buy a MALE veiled Chameleon or commonly known as Yemen chameleon (Chamaeleo Calyptratus). Veiled Chameleons are hardy species. Contrary to popular beliefs, they do not live in an arid and extreme desert. Instead, they live in mountainous region in Yemen, South West Saudi Arabia where lush greeneries are accessible, and the environment can get quite humid. Another species that also fit for beginners is a MALE Panther chameleon (Furcifer Pardalis). This species inhabits the humid and warm regions of Madagascar. There are many different colorations based on their locale (e.g.: Ambanja, Ambilobe, Nosy Be, Nosy Boraha, Sambava, Tamatave, etc). But, scientifically speaking, all locales are basically the same species. Panthers can benefit from having a slightly colder and more humid enclosure than veiled chameleons.

Sexing veiled chameleon is quite easy. The sure way is by looking for tarsal spurs. The male veiled has the spurs on the heel of their back legs. These spurs are present at the moment of birth. When he is still a baby, the spur looked like a tiny pimple. An absence of spurs indicates the chameleon is a female. The male casque is generally taller than the female.

2. Where can I buy the chameleon?
There are 3 methods that you can choose when you are ready to buy a chameleon:

A. Reptile Expo: In my opinion, this is by far the best way to do it. You can meet the actual chameleons and the breeders face to face, ask a lot of questions, and, best of all, the breeders often time has some special discount.
B. Breeder's website: 2nd best way to purchase a chameleon. It is highly possible to get a top quality chameleon via online. Before you purchase one via this method, research extensively about the breeder's reputations. This forum has listed amazing breeders some of which I have experienced in dealing with them. With that said, my advice is ONLY buy the chameleon from someone that have a live guarantee assurance. Be very aware of their terms and guarantees.
C. Local Pet Store or Big Pet Chain Store: This is my least favorite way. Pet Store often charge people with ridiculous price for a chameleon. They often sell neonates (babies younger than 2 months old). And, worst of all, they often give out misleading care sheet. Many of the 'reptile staffs' there are not versed enough in the subject of chameleon's care. With the training to look like experts even though not backed by real knowledge, the staffs in the end will convince clueless customers to buy unnecessary stuffs that often lead to the chameleon's demise. But, to be fair, i have seen some reptile stores that wonderfully care for their chameleons. But, for every one that do, I always have to go through hundreds of one that do not. Therefore, it is highly imperative for you, the future owner, to do your homework by researching about chameleon instead of relying on the 'reptile staff' to do it for you. Of all my experience in helping others who have sick chameleons, many of them are victims of this so called 'Expert' advice. Also realized that in Youtube, there are many exceedingly bad advice and misinformation given by people who claimed themselves as reptile experts.

3. When should I buy my chameleon?
This is where many people often make mistakes. AVOID IMPULSE BUYING AT ALL COST!!! I cannot stress the importance of preparing the complete enclosure FIRST before buying the chameleon. Trust me! It will save you from a lot of heartaches by doing so. Avoid rationalizing your impulse by saying that your chameleon won't mind coming home to an unfinished cage. As I say before, Chameleon demands a perfect environment more so than other reptiles. Heavy stress from unsuitable husbandry will prove to be very fatal to your chameleon in no time.

4. Why should I buy a chameleon?
If you are still thinking of buying one after all the warnings that I raise about how difficult it is to care for one. I think you probably already know why you want one. It is very easy to get attached to this animal. They are surprisingly clean reptiles. In fact, if your chameleon cage emits foul odors, it means you have a problem that needed to be addressed. Also be very aware of one fact before purchasing a chameleon. They are extremely addicting. Many people always start with one chameleon and buying another one within couple of months. My friend always says that you cannot just have one chameleon.

5. How do I select my chameleon?
A. Ask whether the chameleon in question is CB (Captive Bred) or WC (Wild Caught).
Beginners should almost always opt for the CB. WC chameleons often carry parasites and needed to be treated immediately. Some WC chameleons do not adapt to captivity as well as the CB one.

B. Avoid buying chameleons that display these symptoms:

Sunken eyes, closing one eye or both eyes for long period of time, sleeping during the day.
Swollen joints, bumps or swelling on body, mouth, and limb.
Any wounds or sores in the mouth or on the mouth area.
Lethargic and lack of movement during handling.
Weak grip.
Snoring, wheezing, or breathing through mouth.

C. Avoid buying Chameleons that are too young
Don't buy a chameleon that is younger than 2.5 months old, unless you are an experienced chameleon keeper.

D. Use your common sense.
After reading and researching, you will be equipped with enough knowledge to buy chameleons. Whether you go to a pet store, Reptile expo, or choose to buy from online, always ask a lot of questions. If you notice the store or the breeders house their chameleon in a wrong enclosure, give you a wrong advice or uneducated facts, chances are the chameleons they sell are probably not in a good condition. Avoid playing a 'hero' thinking that purchasing from these people will at least save the chameleon's life. Buying from them will encourage them to restock with another chameleons. In the end, more chameleons will suffer. The best way to prevent this from happening is by not supporting their negligence and irresponsibility with your money.

Chameleon Compatibility Test

2008-01-21T12:38:00.000-08:00

CHAMELEON checklist:
Here is a simple Q and A list to check whether you are ready to bring this marvelous creature home as your pet:

1. Do you have a large space to keep a chameleon?
a. Yes -read the facts and move on to #2-
b. No -this animal is not for you

Facts: Old World Chameleons in general are solitary animals. They do not enjoy 'sharing' their environments with other animals, including their own. Baby chameleons do, however, tolerate their siblings during the age of 2.5 months old or younger. After reaching the age of 3 months, they will start to become aggressive and territorial. The adult old world chameleon will need a cage as big as 24"X24"X48." Some species (such as Melleri and Parsonii) requires larger space than that.

2. Do you have time caring for chameleon?
a. Yes -read the facts and move on to #3
b. No -this animal is not for you

Facts: Chameleon keeping is time consuming. They demand scrupulous attention. Their fairly high humidity requirement requires you to at least mist their enclosure twice a day. Do you have time to do that?

3. Are you willing to spend hefty amount of money?
a. Yes -read the facts and move on to #4
b. No -this animal is not for you

Facts: A recommended species for beginners is a male veiled chameleon or a male panther chameleon, in that order. They are hardy species and can tolerate beginners' mistakes. Veiled chameleons range from 45 dollars to 60 dollars. Panthers range from 129 dollars to 350 dollars. Expect to spend about $300 - $450 (for supplies) + the cost of your chameleon. And, that price does not include a vet visit in case your chameleon is sick.

4. Do you love to be able to pet your chameleon?
a. Yes -this animal is not for you
b. No -read the facts and move on to #5

Facts: A chameleon stresses easily and should be handle as minimal as possible. They are wild animals and behave differently than your dogs or cats. They are, in my opinion, see-only pets.

5. Are you comfortable handling insects?
a. Yes -read the facts and move on to #6
b. No -this animal is not for you

Facts: Chameleons are insectivores and they eat a large variety of species, such as: silk worms, hornworms, crickets, roaches, mantises, locusts, moths, flies, and so on. So, living with chameleons means living with insects. Many people will ask whether they can mainly feed their chameleon veggies. The answer to that is: "NO!"

6. Are you comfortable with reptiles?
a. Yes -read the facts and move on to #7
b. No -this animal is not for you

Facts: Handling chameleons is not recommended. However, it is unavoidable during cage cleaning and so on. Chameleons are wild reptiles. They have strong grips due to the facts that they are climbers. Their claws are sharp and should NOT be clipped. Chameleons do bite when they are cornered. They have powerful jaw and can hurt you.

7. Can you prevent your cats, dogs, and children to have full access to your chameleon?
a. Yes -read the facts and move on to #8
b. No -this animal is not for you

Facts: Cats, dogs, and children (especially infants) are generally curious and will not hesitate to grab or bite anything that is interesting. Allowing them to have full access to your chameleon is a recipe for disaster. Although, it is possible to have chameleon peacefully coexist with cats, dogs, and infants, I would still advised limiting them the access to avoid stressing your chameleons. Better safe than sorry.

8. Do you have vets around your place that can treat exotic pets?
a. Yes -read the facts and move on to #9
b. No -it is advisable for you not to have a chameleon pet

Facts: Be aware that most veterinarians only treat common pets such as cats and dogs. It is best to find an exotic vet who open his/ her practice nearby your area BEFORE you purchase a chameleon. Have the vet's contact # handy for Chameleon emergencies. Develop a good rapport with your vet.

9. Do you have friends or relatives that can cham-sit when you are away?
a. Yes -read the facts and move on to #10
b. No -it is advisable for you not to have a chameleon pet

Facts: Chameleons require a lot of attention. They need to be fed and misted daily (Male Adult can be fed every other day). Leaving them unattended for more than 2 days is irresponsible and a form of animal abuse. Always find a responsible adult to baby-sit your chameleon while you are on a vacation.

10. Do you have experience in keeping reptiles (herp)?
a. Yes-congratulations! You might be the perfect candidate to own a chameleon.
b. No -it is advisable for you not to have a chameleon to be your first reptile pet

Facts: Chameleons, by all means, are not beginner's pets. Their requirements to thrive under captivity are very demanding. I would NOT recommend chameleons as pet for beginners. However, it does NOT mean that all beginners will fail in keeping chameleon as their pet. An extensive research is a good start. Be aware, this does not mean asking questions to your local pet chain store and/or googling info for 15 minutes only. I suggest you go to one specific forum for this. www.chameleonforums.com is a VERY EXCELLENT website that offers vast knowledge of chameleon keeping.